Pagid handbrake cables

Started by Bossworld, December 30, 2016, 10:40

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Bossworld

Due to get mine replaced.

EuroCarParts have two sets listed, and from the descriptions, it would seem the year makes the difference (and therefore PFL vs FL).

However, their eBay store just lists the earlier, cheaper   s:D :D s:D   ones as compatible throughout the entire mk3 model range -   m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pagid-Rear-Ri ... 35d8626d3a m

Saw a post on here but it doesn't look like the mystery was revealed -  m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic. ... &start=150 m

Anyone got any further experience they can share?

Seen a few other posts discussing different lengths but that seems true of both Toyota and Pagid ones -  l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=57628&p=668329&hilit=handbrake+cables&sid=7672f0bd229a5788f1cdd3501923c0b1#p668329 l

My current cables have the equalising bracket at a ~2pm type position. but given it's the driver's side that seems to more knackered/stretched, hopefully once they're replaced it will be more even.

Thanks

Carolyn

#1
I have done work on the back brakes of both FL and PFL cars.  Can't report any obvious difference.  The two sides ARE different lengths.  Could be the retaining brackets that hold them to the car behind the tank differ, but those could be swapped over...
I've installed a few and never even considered the FL/PFL issue.  Didn't encounter any problems.
The bracket will straighten out with two new cables.
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Tomo70

#2
I replace my brake cables last year with pagid cables and was not happy with the result. Since then i have replaced with genuine and they fit alot better.

The problem with the pagid was the cable was long and i was getting a very uneven pull at the yoke. The qualty of the cable outer also let the pagid down  there were signs of rust and the aluminium casting at the caliper end was poor. Within a week i lost the spring clips that hold the cable outer to the caliper bracket.

If you intend to keep ghe car buy genuine.
🚘Just a pass time to break the monotony

Bossworld

#3
Thank you both.

Problem with the genuine ones is the cost, cheapest I've seen was a post on here which was £58 + VAT each side plus post.  So that's £150 before labour.

The pagid ones are a shade under £50 for the pair.

Completely get where you're coming from and I know the Toyota ones will be better, but the car's 2004 with 125k on the clock. Given what a state mine are currently in, surely the Pagid ones have to be some kind of improvement?

I've also seen another retailer/brand here for £45, lord knows if they're any better or worse:  m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-MR2-MK ... Sw9N1VxMfm m

There's also these:  m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-MR2-20 ... C-7QQjA0kA m

Tomo70

#4
I have got some very good condition cables off a low mileage breaker( the xar is a longterm project so decide to buy new. Given the genuine last 12years and the pagid would have been lucky to last 3 ). If you pm me your details i will forward you some pictures £17.50 including post.
🚘Just a pass time to break the monotony

Bossworld

#5
Ok mate dropped you a message.

spuggy

#6
i fitted a Europarts one and it lasted for just over one year before seizing solid
if you can afford it, go genuine every time
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Carolyn

#7
Whatever cable you use, it helps to hang them up and pour a little oil down them until it drips out of the other end.  A well lubricated cable won't seize.
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Topdownman

#8
Quote from: "Carolyn"Whatever cable you use, it helps to hang them up and pour a little oil down them until it drips out of the other end.  A well lubricated cable won't seize.

An old motorcycle tip when doing this was to make a little funnel at the top end out of plasticene and fill with oil and leave it for a while to run through.
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ChrisGB

#9
Quote from: "Topdownman"
Quote from: "Carolyn"Whatever cable you use, it helps to hang them up and pour a little oil down them until it drips out of the other end.  A well lubricated cable won't seize.

An old motorcycle tip when doing this was to make a little funnel at the top end out of plasticene and fill with oil and leave it for a while to run through.

It may work, however, some oils swell some nylon cable sheaths, causing cables to bind, so not always a good idea.
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Carolyn

#10
I've been using 3 in 1 oil on cables for decades.  Never had a problem.  Maybe some synthetics will attack nylon.  A simple mineral oil won't.
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Bossworld

#11
Ended up buying the £45 ones following the non-pagid recommendations.

Handful of happy reviews of these specific ones on the ebay seller's account, the bits that clamp inside the car are metal rather than plastic, and the part numbers both check out.

Will find out in circa 10 days if they're any good.  May possibly pick up the Pagid ones as a nowhere-open-on-Sunday failsafe but think these should be fine.


sussex

#12
Looking to change the Handbrake cables in the near future for the march mot, am i dreaming or did some one post a write up on the procedure for changing the cables, searched but cannot find

mulaz

#13
I bought a non original pattern part lower steering knuckle joint for half the price of the genuine Toyota original one Bad mistake
Never again!..not the same and i couldn't get my steering wheel straight until i had a full wheel steering set up done. it also did not look to be of the same quality

I will now take advice and when someone says they have had problems with copy parts and dig a little deeper into my wallet and pay for the original part knowing it will fit and last longer
Slowly replacing all the old parts for new parts so that one day i will end up with a brand new car !   s]

Bossworld

#14
Quote from: "mulaz"I bought a non original pattern part lower steering knuckle joint for half the price of the genuine Toyota original one Bad mistake
Never again!..not the same and i couldn't get my steering wheel straight until i had a full wheel steering set up done. it also did not look to be of the same quality

I will now take advice and when someone says they have had problems with copy parts and dig a little deeper into my wallet and pay for the original part knowing it will fit and last longer

Well, as above I've listened to the advice to avoid Pagid   s;) ;) s;) .

Your call as to whether or not to avoid pattern parts for a given scenario, but your own clutch thread shows a range of opinions on brands (good luck btw I'm hoping you'll update the thread once done).

I certainly don't have £150 this side of Xmas. I currently have effectively no handbrake on the offside, so any functionality will be an improvement.

Three all positive reviews of these Herth+Buss ones on the eBay feedback forum in recent weeks too, and no negatives against them. They've also got the metal collar on both sides, as other posts regarding Pagid mention one side had a plastic one that looks prone to failure.

Sussex - looks like you've found the thread but I'll c and p that and the other link I found here, in case this comes up on a search:

 l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=60311 l

 l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=36763 l

Bossworld

#15
Sorry to come back to this. Car went to a family mechanic for the subframe who spotted the rear pads were low so swapped them.

Had no handbrake when I got the car back so took the cables off, rewound the piston in fully then back out 90 (couldn't get anymore on it without it leaving 0 clearance at all, even with winding in without any pressure first).
So I'm confident I did that part right.

Did the centre console adjustment. Again the nearside still seems stronger and the equaliser bar is still at something of a slant. But, the handbrake currently works with the caveat -

Parked on the flat - 5 clicks and it's solid

Mild hill - 7 clicks and holds well

Stupidly steep hill - slight roll at seven, stopping again and going up to 9 (out of a max of about 10) and it didn't roll backwards.

Bit unsure as to whether to adjust the interior cable any more as I'm fairly sure when I had it on axle stands it was getting to a point where the nearside wasn't spinning as freely, if I tightened it any further.

Any mileage in replacing the interior cable, or should I just slacken off and start again? Is it going to pass an MoT in its current state; in which case I'll just leave it?

Thank you