Silent coat

[lamcote]

Does anyone have any tips about how best to use silent coat to sound proof the doors?

Is the 2mm thick version best for the doors? Also how is it best to apply to the outer skin? Any good tips?

Thanks

[beavisrules]

looks interesting stuff , always like the quality of thing with 3M badge.
Guessing it'll be plain 'glue' sticky and just need a clean surface , not like the gutter flashing stuff that's tar and needs to be warm to stick.

Seeing other things they do has given me idea for carpet underlay , would like softer and less road noise  s:) s:)

[vx220]

If you're doing it this time of year, use a heat gun to warm it before you apply. Cover as much of the outer door skins as possible, and stick a bit on the impact bar in the door. Use it on the inner door skin as well, to seal the big holes (really helps bass response) and between the speaker spacer and the inner door skin. If you have any left over, cover the door cards as well, to help with rattles (a closed cell foam is better for that,though)

[vx220]

...also, apparently not worth doing double layers, so saves some monies. There's an interesting test that shows that covering 25% of an area is enough, much more is wasteful, but I almost completely cover the inner and outer skin. Covering the holes in the inner skin is really effective. The impact bars have a bit of a ring to them, so worth some stuck on there.

[lamcote]

Excellent thanks, I had seen that 25% thing quoted as well so wondered what others thought. I'll leave it until the weather warms up a bit I think. Is the 2mm stuff best or do you think something thicker is better?

[John is200sport]

When cut, it's very very sharp. It's sticks unbelievable. Great product. I've also heard every little bit doesn't need to be done.

[vx220]

Thicker is better, but for a single six-incher 2mm is fine.

The other thing worth bearing in mind is that one big piece is more effective than three or four small pieces covering the same area.

[John is200sport]

Double post from earlier.

[JoeCool]

Yeah, it's good stuff. IT's mass loading for the panels, which is why you don't need 100% coverage. It drops the resonant frequency of the panel as much as 'absorbs' frequencies.

Cut to shape and test fit with the backing still on. Try and get it in big pieces, you can fold/roll it to get it into the door cavity. Once you're happy, just pull a bit of the backing off, stick it at the furthest point, then smooth it on as you pull the backing off. A roller of some kind can really help to smooth it onto the door skin.

all the proper sound deadening material are much of a muchness IMO - silent coat, dynamat, etc. So long as they're foil backed and not bitumen based it's all good. It's cheap 'flashing tape' solutions that are horrible to use and live with!

[lamcote]

Thanks for all the replies, very helpful.