parking brake MOT fail - easy fix (for some)

Started by tets, September 23, 2017, 15:18

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tets

Having failed it's test last week on just the steering knuckle and offside parking brake i set about them at 1pm today.

Steering knuckle took about 45 mins including having a cig break!!

Set about the brakes and soon realised it had had new rear calipers at some time before we got the car as they were literally like new (we hardly do any miles and they hadn't even got a spec off surface rust on them). The handbrake has always been high (for reference).

Had a look at the "how to" on handbrake adjustment - the rear screws in the centre console had both dropped out and the fronts unscrewed easily with the end of a socket type multi end screwdriver thing and a 6mm spanner.

Immediately noticed the bar that the individual cables attach to was giving the nearside a bit more tension. Then put the spanner on the adjuster locking nut which was completely loose. The adjuster bolt, I could move with my fingers and had either not been tightened properly at some time or had just come loose. tightened down and locked up properly with the lever now coming up 6/7 clicks.

Now holds perfectly well on my sloping drive so hopefully will retest will go well. Might be worth checking this before stripping calipers as it literally took me 10 minutes from start to finish and short of the test result seems miles better.

Carolyn

#1
Just a quick check before you present it for MOT?  Jack it up and check both sides hold equally well?
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PhilzMR2

#2
Quote from: "tets"Had a look at the "how to" on handbrake adjustment.

Sorry for being thick, but where is the how to section?

I replaced a rear caliper and all rear pads yesterday and need to reset the handbrake cable.

Thanks!

tets

#3
next section down on the main board
dead easy job. The front 2 screws are in a crap position but as I said above, a philips en of a interchangeable screwdriver with a 6mm spanner got them really easily.

Call the midlife!

#4
Quote from: "tets"next section down on the main board
dead easy job. The front 2 screws are in a crap position but as I said above, a philips en of a interchangeable screwdriver with a 6mm spanner got them really easily.
If you've got fabric seats you can use a fairly long Phillips screwdriver, just run the seat right to the front and push down on the seat cushion and you can get them. Can't say about leather mind you.


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60% of the time it works everytime...

Carolyn

#5
Make sure the cables are slack, with no tension on the lever on the caliper.  Pump the hell out of the footbrake (at least ten times).  Adjust cable to taste.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
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tets

#6
Quote from: "Carolyn"Make sure the cables are slack, with no tension on the lever on the caliper.  Pump the hell out of the footbrake (at least ten times).  Adjust cable to taste.
i did mine with the engine running

PhilzMR2

#7
Thanks for the comments. I'm pleased to report that it's now all fixed and working. As suggested above, you can just about remove the front screws in the central console by pushing the seats forward and using a long screwdriver so that the shaft gently presses down on the seat cushioning. (Mine are leather).

For anyone else attempting rear brake pad / caliper replacements, I would make the following comments:
Removing the pins holding the handbrake cables to the calipers is a real pain. Search this forum for a pic of a press to make using a ball joint splitter.
Even with new calipers, don't attempt the job without getting a caliper rewind tool first.
Follow the "how to's" on this forum - as advised, when tensioning the cable, 1mm gap between the caliper end stop and the handbrake crank works well!
If the handbrake cable refuses to budge in the centre console after slackening the nuts, a dose of penetrating oil into the far end of the cable,
followed by a whack with a large adjustable spanner on the cable union in the centre console works wonders.  :-) :-) :-)

dgreaves

#8
I have found with other cars I have had and and my Mr-2 the best bet is to replace the cross headed self tappers with ones with a 7mm hex head with built in washer, works a treat, your local friendly bodyshop will give you a few as they use lots of them.

Dave Greaves

tets

#9
well it passed this morning but the offside was still not as good as the near - foot brake on the rears were bang equal and spot on!! happy days