rear subframe rust - replacement / treated professionally?

[BahnStormer]

Are there any places that will scrub down and properly seal the rear subframe?

Mine is in reasonably good condition (it's a July 2007 car, with <60k), but there is definitely a fair bit of rust forming and I'd rather get this done sooner rather than later...

I assume it needs some wire brushing and then treating/sealing, but I don't even have a drive that I can jack a car up on properly (deep gravel) let alone anywhere that is closed to the elements, so are there any suggestions as to where I could take the car to get it looked after properly?

My main thought is that this is really something that I need to get looked at before I waste the rest of this year's "toy budget" on suspension and bracing, plus I want to see how good/bad it is before I start pouring more money into it!

[ManInDandism]

Another option might be to source an already refurbed one and just get your own swapped out somewhere down the line.  I've seen them priced at £160-170 odd. Cheap compared to a new one and probably being done by those who actually know what they are doing, i.e they've done more than just the one.  Taking your one out, having the car sitting around for it to be refurbished maybe as a one-off job and then popping it back in - what sort of cost if your not doing it yourself versus just getting someone to simply fit a well-sourced one for you?  Just a thought.

Can tell that the one on my newly acquired '04 has recently been replaced as looks very tidy (adjoining heat shields rusty in comparison).  Unfortunately not nicely painted up, but you can't have everything I guess!   

[Topdownman]

Have you got one of those "rent a lift" type of garage near you? That would be an easy way to work on it.

Get the nappy off and have a good look around. I am sure it will need a wire brush, degrease and rust treatment at the very least but that could be all you need to do every couple of years.

[krazysteve]

Send Carl a msg at Raven, he shotblasts, and powdercoats them in many colours.   Also on Facebook .

http://www.ravenblastcleaningltd.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwce61M3F2QIVwbftCh2IxASlEAAYASAAEgJyifD_BwE

[BahnStormer]

Have you got one of those "rent a lift" type of garage near you? That would be an easy way to work on it.

Get the nappy off and have a good look around. I am sure it will need a wire brush, degrease and rust treatment at the very least but that could be all you need to do every couple of years.

I think the nappy has been off mine for years! I can see it all pretty clearly.... pretty good rust coating, but none of it deep (yet!)...

And thanks for the tip Krazy... I was thinking about a full replacement with a properly treated one, that way I don't have to worry that the clean-up has got all the rust and that the treatment has filled every nook and cranny....

[BahnStormer]

I'm slightly nervous about using a 2nd hand one, especially given the cost/hassle of fitting them, so would consider buying a new one (£300?), then get it properly treated (is just powdercoating it enough?) and then get it fitted professionally at a local garage.

Not a cheap option, but one way to get it sorted for another ten years, plus minimising the time the car is off the road, etc....

[1979scotte]

Powder coating isn't enough although I think I had it done.
Mine has a kind of rubberised paint on the outside and cavity wax on the inside.
It's the inside that needs the most looking after.
If you intend on keeping the car for a while I would have a brand new one.
Or see if Dean or Dick have a quality secondhand item.
I have bought new for both my 2s.

[krazysteve]

I'm slightly nervous about using a 2nd hand one, especially given the cost/hassle of fitting them, so would consider buying a new one (£300?), then get it properly treated (is just powdercoating it enough?) and then get it fitted professionally at a local garage.

Not a cheap option, but one way to get it sorted for another ten years, plus minimising the time the car is off the road, etc....

depends on the process?  when its hit with a decent medium any thin steel because of internal corrosion will show ( trust me it takes no prisoners).
It also needs to be gassed out at least 20 degrees above cure temp. then a base followed by colour.
Wax oiling can be done after, but the powder can be blown inside with the bungs out.

[BahnStormer]

Essentially, I'm not in a rush to get this done.... but I want to make sure I only have to do this once EVER. Short of a Lotto win meaning I have about £80k to throw at a 2018 model Boxster Spyder 3.8, I'm planning to keep the car for a long time.... and even if I did, I'd probably still keep the '2 and just turn it into a proper track rat, no expense spared 

If I'm going with a new one, then any recommendations on where to get the treatment done (Carl @ Raven again?)?

I'm considering these steps:
Buy new Rear Subframe, get it delivered to somebody who will do the treatment.
Get the treatment* done and either pick it up / PaisleyFreight back to me.
Then take my car into any Toyota specialists (or a Toyoya Dealership?!?) and ask them to fit the treated subframe.

*I'm still not sure EXACTLY what to ask for at this point, but let's keep discussing it here

[1979scotte]

Wouldn't go to Toyota in a million years.
Where are you based?

[Joesson]

I suggest that pre treatment of a new replacement subframe is something you could be overthinking. Your existing subframe is 10 years old and I guess is OE and will likely have been finished to the same specification as a replacement new one. So a new one untreated should last for another 10 years without any extra treatment. If you can find some where to apply the new pretreatment yourself you would likely save some expense and importantly know what had been done.
A product such as Bilt Hamber Dynax-UC - is available in a 750ml aerosol with an injection tube that will reach into all the crooks and nannies of the frame.
There has been a previous thread on here, where this subject was discussed, and sealing of all openings in the frame was advocated before spraying with Dynax or similar.
The exterior could be similarly coated or spray painted with a rattle can or for a thicker application a brush.
Fitting the frame can then be done by an installer of your choice. I would be unlikely to choose Mr T to do that work.

[Carolyn]

From the way you describe it, the only thing between you and getting a few more years (at least) out of it, is having somewhere to jack the car up and get to work.
There's plenty of save-able original sub-frames out there.
I've got one, and I've seen several others.
Worth finding a decent spot for a day in Spring?
just sayin'.

[BahnStormer]

Where are you based?

10mins from the SW corner of the M25, just close enough into London that nobody has garages / big enough driveways to have me parked up there for a day or two.

[BahnStormer]

I suggest that pre treatment of a new replacement subframe is something you could be overthinking.

Yep, agreed I'm overthinking it now, when I don't NEED to do it... I may well leave it another year or two, but I just want to feel like I've done the research and feel properly informed for when I do need to make a decision.

[1979scotte]

I may be incorrect but I believe the subframes are no longer in production.
If you plan on keeping the car some form of spare new or old is worth getting.
I would seek out Steve@D1 or Headcase for fitting and preparing.

[J03]

This will sound pedantic but it's not intended to be  :-) Just a bit of clarification as I'm currently using all 3 products.......

DYNAX S-50 goes inside the subframe using the provided 60cm lance / DYNAX UB (or UC - clear version) on the outside 

[Joesson]

Or, If all else fails, read the instructions