Cold idle - what is yours like?

Started by Bossworld, March 20, 2018, 12:14

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Bossworld

At the minute, with the cold weather outside, my car seems to start at about 1700rpm.

As it warms up, it drops in stages to about 1100, before settling at about 900 when fully warm (temperature gauge pointing East).  Unless I'm on a motorway or busy A road, this takes about 10 minutes.

I've fully cleaned the TB and IACV, the car has new plugs, air filter and the rest.

Is it par for the course in these outside temps?  My daily (N18 Mini) starts at about 1100 in this weather but drops to about 800 within a couple of minutes.

Treboeth

Totally normal and nothing to worry about :)

Carolyn

Actually it's about 200 rpm above ideal at start=up and when warm.

Could be a a dirty MAF Doubtless you've done that.... or a slight air leak.
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Bossworld

Quote from: Carolyn on March 20, 2018, 13:41
Actually it's about 200 rpm above ideal at start=up and when warm.

Could be a a dirty MAF Doubtless you've done that.... or a slight air leak.

Maf was cleaned when I did the T/B and rocker cover gasket and the car pulls well through the revs.

I haven't got any clips on the hose running from the charcoal cannister, I know that came up on the Facebook group recently. Not sure if there any other obvious air leak areas

Carolyn

Is the intake hose good and tight at both ends?  A clamp or two or the canister hose is not a bad idea - also check the small hoses for cracks?
Doesn't take much.
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Bossworld

Quote from: Carolyn on March 20, 2018, 14:43
Is the intake hose good and tight at both ends?  A clamp or two or the canister hose is not a bad idea - also check the small hoses for cracks?
Doesn't take much.

Intake is happily clamped down on both sides, there is a pipe before the airbox that just seems to slot in (with a notch at the top) but I'm sure I've read elsewhere that's normal?

Will have a closer look at the canister run :)

Ardent

Boss
Intake pipe as you describe. Normal. Bit of insulation foam tape or duct tape. But not a biggie. Only really steering the air to the air box.
It's unmetered air after the maf that you dont want. Clamps secure etc etc.
AS C says. dosen't take a lot.
Do you have one of those plug in dongle things and a torque pro. You can then monitor your readings.

Bossworld

Quote from: Ardent on March 20, 2018, 18:26
Boss
Intake pipe as you describe. Normal. Bit of insulation foam tape or duct tape. But not a biggie. Only really steering the air to the air box.
It's unmetered air after the maf that you dont want. Clamps secure etc etc.
AS C says. dosen't take a lot.
Do you have one of those plug in dongle things and a torque pro. You can then monitor your readings.

I've got a Bluetooth ODB somewhere, which stat(s) should I be looking for?

Many thanks

Bossworld

So from Ardent's suggestion, seems my rev counter over reads in comparison to the ECU output.

Took me a while to figure out how to screenshot (stupid Android) but Torque reports startup at 1538.

Within a couple of mins dropping to this



And then finally this:


Carolyn - Tried putting cable ties on each part of the hoses from the canister, they don't seem in bad shape (possibly some tiny cracks in the outer face but the pipe itself isn't split) though it didn't make a difference.

Whole thread may be a panic over nothing, just from googling 1ZZ cold idle there are stories of people replacing thermostats/sensors/IACVs and getting it down to about 1200 at cold.

shnazzle

All looks pretty normal. Don't worry too much :)
If you want I can hook up Techstream Toyota ELMScan and tell you whether the VVT and IACV are working on if it makes you feel better. But 1200 on initial settle-down and 790 warm is pretty on spec.

If anything, vacuum is a bit on the high side.
...neutiquam erro.

1979scotte

Not to contradict those with far more knowledge than myself but my 1zz always settled to 790 just like yours.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Carolyn

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https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Ardent

Scroll down the list and add in the O2 sensors.
And the stft and ltft.
Short and long term fuel trims.

Ardent

Boss.
On the coming up to temp time.  Very easy to forget in the mini the rad sits infront of the engine at the front.
With the 2 the rad is still at the front of the car. The engine however is not.
You have approx 9 litres  of coolant to circulate and warm up. Takes a bit longer.  But what a heater when you have.  ;D

Bossworld

Quote from: shnazzle on March 21, 2018, 15:04
All looks pretty normal. Don't worry too much :)
If you want I can hook up Techstream Toyota ELMScan and tell you whether the VVT and IACV are working on if it makes you feel better. But 1200 on initial settle-down and 790 warm is pretty on spec.

If anything, vacuum is a bit on the high side.

Is that the ELMScan app on the play store for about a fiver? Would you recommend?

Tried the free one and it connects with my cheapy Bluetooth dongle so that's a win, but presume I need the full fat one to run tests?

Ta

(I have no idea what the long term and short term fuel trims should be, but both them and the o2 sensor readings seemed to move around quite happily in Torque earlier today)  :)

shnazzle

That's the one. It's worth every penny and more.

LTFT should optimally be 0 or as close to it with a tolerance of 5 either way or so.
STFT will tend to fluctuate up and down normally. That's good.

...neutiquam erro.

Ardent