Preparing to service my seized caliper - Just want to make sure I do it right

[je72]

Hello folks, you may remember when I got the 2, my local garage identified both rear calipers seizing, uneven pad wear and the rubber boot on the hand brake cables had distergrated. They were talking about new bits and figures in the region of £700 were estimated. You kind folks put my mind at rest and bought those figures down considerably if I could do the work myself.

I ummed and ahhed a bit too long as the calipers seized on during a drive last sunday which ended up with me needing a piggy back on a transporter. I was going to try to get a local garage to look at it and was initially hoping for an MR2 specialist. But alas they are all too far away or fully booked or don't respond to the phone.

So I've decided to try to do it myself I've ordered two sets of these from brake parts: https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Toyota/MR2/00-/MR2%20Sports%20Zzw30%201.8%20Roadster/Rear%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20Cylinders/BCK4533

Along with a set of these pads: https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Toyota/MR2/00-/MR2%20Sports%20Zzw30%201.8%20Roadster/Rear%20-%20Brake%20Pads%20and%20Shoes/BPS1384F

I've ordered some axle stands which I'm hoping to use in conjunction with the Toyota emergency scissor lift as I can't stretch to low profile trolly jack yet.

I'm going to try to follow this guide in part, but I think that I don't need the special tool or circlip pliers mentioned as I'm not planning on removing the piston (or would that be wrong?) https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=33557.msg404864#msg404864

I have looked for how to's on servicing calipers and I couldn't find any other than the one above, if anyone has any advice or links to other guides (or youtubes) so I can do as much research beforehand it would be greatly appreciated  :notworthy: Cheers all, I'm going in!

EDIT Actually I'm not going in until I'm as confident as I can be that I'll be successful and the parts won't be arriving until tomorrow at the earliest, didn't want anyone thinking I was being too gung ho!

[Bossworld]

Just from my own perspective, I considered re-doing my own and bottled it.  Brakes International sell a pair for about £160, I believe there's still no core charge or need to return the old ones.  I sold my others on eBay for £40 (and they went within a day) , and that was with a non-functional handbrake lever on one calliper.  I'm hoping for a few trouble free years now.

See what other people with more rebuild experience say, but I'd be cautious of doing half the job.  From my admittedly limited knowledge, if you're not removing the piston, what are you servicing?  The slider boots and pins only?  If so, the pins aren't included in the brakes international kit (only about £2 each from Toyota admittedly) and I think the slider boot wasn't particularly expensive directly from Toyota.

Best of luck either way

[james_ly]

Hope you're feeling strong! I had a nightmare getting the pad carrier bolts out (you may not need to do that if leaving the discs on). You'll definitely need a piston rewind tool, some Ceratec grease for the sliders, and some patience.

[je72]

Just from my own perspective, I considered re-doing my own and bottled it.  Brakes International sell a pair for about £160, I believe there's still no core charge or need to return the old ones.  I sold my others on eBay for £40 (and they went within a day) , and that was with a non-functional handbrake lever on one calliper.  I'm hoping for a few trouble free years now.

See what other people with more rebuild experience say, but I'd be cautious of doing half the job.  From my admittedly limited knowledge, if you're not removing the piston, what are you servicing?  The slider boots and pins only?  If so, the pins aren't included in the brakes international kit (only about £2 each from Toyota admittedly) and I think the slider boot wasn't particularly expensive directly from Toyota.

Best of luck either way

This is why I asked the question, I'm sure you're probably right. I'd started off hoping that by taking the caliper off off and cleaning it might be sufficient. I had thought those kits included everything I needed to service calipers. If I add on slider pins and the actual pistons then it gets pretty close to the actual cost of new calipers.

Not having the use of the 2 for 3 days makes me do silly things! I think I'm going to see if I can get brakeparts to refund the order (if it hasn't already left) and just buy the new calipers. Unless someone comes along and calms my nerves 

[Topdownman]

Brakes are one of those things you need to get right. If you havent worked on them before I dont think rebuilding calipers is the best way to start.

I would suggest getting the rebuilt calipers (mine were exchange items from brakeparts international) and getting a local garage to fit the bits for you.

Do you know if your handbrake cables will need replacing as well?

[je72]

Brakes are one of those things you need to get right. If you havent worked on them before I dont think rebuilding calipers is the best way to start.

I would suggest getting the rebuilt calipers (mine were exchange items from brakeparts international) and getting a local garage to fit the bits for you.

Do you know if your handbrake cables will need replacing as well?

I'm coming to the same conclusion myself. I'd seen a post by Carolyn where she said that calipers can usually be resurrected and she questioned whether people always buying new ones was the right action. I also watched a youtube video where the guy was very encouraging about working on calipers saying stuff like "it's doable" and "you can do it" etc but ultimately ended up buying a new caliper as the piston was seized and he didn't want to mess about trying to free it up (that probably should have been a red flag) Speaking about cars and maintenance, sometimes it takes a few chats for the penny to drop with me. Which is why I thought I'd start a thread. I've emailed brakeparts and asked them to cancel the order. I'm going to buy some new calipers and take it to a local garage to do.

I don't know if the handbrake cables need replacing, but they probably do as the garage said the rubber boots were perished when they inspected it back in May. It may be that I have to take it off the road for a bit until I can afford to get it all done in one go 

[Topdownman]

Brakeparts do exchange calipers which look like new, I dont think you actually need brand new ones. It just means they have fitted all new parts rather than you struggling to do it.

If you can undo the handbrake cables and see if they move freely then you dont need new cables straightaway, if they dont move then I guess you need it all done....

[Call the midlife!]

If the cables are free then you can replace the rubber gaitors yourself, a lot of people use mountain bike cable gaitors for a few pence. The refurbished calipers should be a straightforward bolt on, especially if they come wound back but you can do that yourself also without a special tool.
Just follow the "how to".
Just don't forget you'll need fresh fluid and to bleed them first, which is a pain on your own.
You can do it!


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[J03]

Agree with getting all new calipers. I've refurbed a lot of parts on mine so don't mind getting stuck in, but rear calipers really weren't worth the hassle considering the condition they were in vs price.

Just finished spraying them actually, hmmm cannae beat brand new 

[Call the midlife!]

I've been given permission to post this by my mate James (ilovejapcrap)
His are away about to be done.


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[Carolyn]

What about the carriers and retaining springs?  Are they done at the same time?

[J03]

There's a company called CARDONE that provides new caliper & mounting bracket sets, basically a whole bolt on solution. 

They have to be ordered from the US however, RockAuto supply them. I've ordered hubs from them before without any issues.

Part numbers for the rears are 19-B2754 (Left) & 19-B2755 (Right)

Fronts are also available with part numbers 19-B2651 & 19-B2650

NOTE: The "B" in the part number denotes "Bracket".

[Carolyn]

I just read the paperwork and the refurbishing service does the carriers and calipers.  So £250 for all four is a decent price.

The new calipers in the pics seem to come without the carriers.  Carriers can be cleaned up very easily.  I'm just wondering how much brand new calipers and carriers for all four corners comes to.

Cleaning up your old carriers is pretty easy.

[Call the midlife!]

I just read the paperwork and the refurbishing service does the carriers and calipers.  So £250 for all four is a decent price.

The new calipers in the pics seem to come without the carriers.  Carriers can be cleaned up very easily.  I'm just wondering how much brand new calipers and carriers for all four corners comes to.

Cleaning up your old carriers is pretty easy.

They're blasting them and painting them for £10/corner while they're stripped too.


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[Carolyn]

I STILL say you CAN do it yourself - if you're so inclined.

I have two pre-face-lift cars both with really well working service brakes and hand brakes.  All simply properly serviced by yours truly.

I DID have to replace one handbrake cable.  Otherwise is was a couple of service kits (for rubber bits) some new retaining clips, some Ceratec and a bit of elbow-grease!

Plus all the tools!!

[ilovejapcrap]

I STILL say you CAN do it yourself - if you're so inclined.

I have two pre-face-lift cars both with really well working service brakes and hand brakes.  All simply properly serviced by yours truly.

I DID have to replace one handbrake cable.  Otherwise is was a couple of service kits (for rubber bits) some new retaining clips, some Ceratec and a bit of elbow-grease!

Plus all the tools!!

Hey up it's my quote midlife crises sent, I agree you can do yourself, I even have a rear rebuild kit. However at that money including paint ( sprayed on in a booth not painted in my shed) I just thought why not.

Pics and report from myself to follow when back. I sent money yesterday so I recon a weeks time.

In a side note if you read report the paint they use is better than what you get on a reverb calliper so should last longer.


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[frogger]

You can do it yourself, and you fix what you find.

If the slider boots are knackered, replace them.

If the piston boot is good and the piston is moving fine. You leave it. It is not, you change it.

If the handbrake mechanism is working, leave it ... etc....

I'd struggle to count how many I've refurbed.... maybe around 20.

I've only ever bought 1 - and that was because everything was wrong with it - slider, piston, handbrake mechanism... and I'm tired of doing bloody caliper refurbs lol.


All that said - that 250 price is a good deal for 4, and I'd be tempted if I needed lots doing.

[Mr X]

I rebuilt mine without even using the service kit. If none of the rubbers are split you don't need it. Just be careful taking them to bits. I've actually never needed a service kit on any of the cars I've stripped calipers on.

So many people by new calipers and I have no idea why! Although, a few select tools are handy to have and make the job a lot easier!
You will need a SST from toyota to take the internals to bits but that's only a few quid:
SST 09756-00010



rear brake rewind tool:


g quick grip:



pair circlip pliers:


A workbench and vice handy..and then obviously break fluid!

As I said, the SST lets you take the rear caliper internals to bits.
Rewind tool is to wind the piston in and out (before I brought one I used a spanner with the end grinded down to be 90deg to the shaft). Again, not expensive
Use the G-clamp to help get the piston out. Before disconnecting the break lines put the G-clamp onto the caliper so one side is around the back and the other is a few cm from the front face of the piston. Push the break pedal so the piston comes out onto the clamp, move the clamp out a bit and push the break pedal again. keep doing this until the break piston is nearly out. It's just to stop the piston popping out all the way and saves you winding it all out on the workbench.
Circlip pliers to get the circlip out holding the boot on.

There's even an online manual showing how to strip the calipers and it's in the CD workshop manual.

Once you get it to bits you need to pay attention to the piston and the inner lip of the cylinder. This is where the corrosion builds up stopping the breaks from working. clean them up the piston with scotch brite and the cylinder with wet&dry paper.
Strip the rest and use high temp grease in the handbrake internals and on the sliders. Don't use copper grease!

Hope this helps

[je72]

Hey up it's my quote midlife crises sent, I agree you can do yourself, I even have a rear rebuild kit. However at that money including paint ( sprayed on in a booth not painted in my shed) I just thought why not.

Pics and report from myself to follow when back. I sent money yesterday so I recon a weeks time.

In a side note if you read report the paint they use is better than what you get on a reverb calliper so should last longer.


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So after many hours of chin rubbing, I decided to go down the route of getting them professionally refurbed. I have Bigg Red near me, but when I was looking at thier website the refurb service specifies:

Not included in price:

Carriage, slider bolts, pad pins, pad fitting kits, banjo bolts
Mounting bolts or transfer pipes

So I'm keen to know what company it was was @midlifecrisis posted the quote for and if @ilovejapcrap has had the calipers returned yet and if so was he happy with the service and results?

Thanks for the help everyone 

[Topdownman]

This is a link to brakeparts;

https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/TOYOTA/MR2/00-/MR2%20SPORTS%20ZZW30%201.8%20ROADSTER/Front%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20cylinders

[je72]

This is a link to brakeparts;

https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/TOYOTA/MR2/00-/MR2%20SPORTS%20ZZW30%201.8%20ROADSTER/Front%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20cylinders

Cheers Simon, I read on the Facebook group that some people had problems with the calipers from Brakes International and that they only lasted 12-18 months, the guy in question ended up going to Bigg Red and said they were still going strong after 4 years. There's probably others who've had the BI parts and had no problems, but it was enough to sway me. 

I had been flip flopping between all the solutions until I finally I ended up buying some old calipers on ebay for refurb, the listing said that they were working when they were removed (5 years ago and they do look a touch grungy!) so hopefully I can fit them, get my existing ones into Bigg Red (or wherever I decide to get them refurbed) so I don't have to have the car on jack stands for a week and a half, then sell them again (only paid £40 for them) when I get the refurbed ones back.

I'm not sure if it's the best or most economical way of going, but I need to get her useable again, I'm missing my evening jaunts.

[ilovejapcrap]

Hey up it's my quote midlife crises sent, I agree you can do yourself, I even have a rear rebuild kit. However at that money including paint ( sprayed on in a booth not painted in my shed) I just thought why not.

Pics and report from myself to follow when back. I sent money yesterday so I recon a weeks time.

In a side note if you read report the paint they use is better than what you get on a reverb calliper so should last longer.


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So after many hours of chin rubbing, I decided to go down the route of getting them professionally refurbed. I have Bigg Red near me, but when I was looking at thier website the refurb service specifies:

Not included in price:

Carriage, slider bolts, pad pins, pad fitting kits, banjo bolts
Mounting bolts or transfer pipes

So I'm keen to know what company it was was @midlifecrisis posted the quote for and if @ilovejapcrap has had the calipers returned yet and if so was he happy with the service and results?

Thanks for the help everyone 

Well first of some pictures




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[ilovejapcrap]

Not fitted yet but look lovely.

Probs took 3 weeks but if I emailed I got a reply that day. Brilliant to correspond with.


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