Rubbing Sound - Hot Rear Brake

Started by chrismscotland, August 27, 2018, 20:55

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chrismscotland

Looking for a little (more) advice! Thanks in advance this place has been great so far!

I had noticed since I bought the car that there appears to be a rubbing noise coming form somewhere and I suspected probably the brakes although it seems fairly constant rather than stopping/starting when I brake, I also can't say that I've really noticed the brakes sticking at all.

Having done some reading though I did the "hot wheel" test and the Drivers Side Rear is way way hotter than the other wheels when I come to the end of a journey.

Looking at the Service Invoices it looks like it last had any kind of brake parts back in 2013 (albeit only 14k miles ago), I suspect its likely to be needing pads, etc but how can I tell which parts are needing done?

Ardent

Maybe start with giving a clean and lube.
Do the sliders, slide?

chrismscotland

Will need to have a look tonight when I get a chance to get the wheel off.

Topdownman

It is perfectly normal to have to clean and adjust the brakes frequently on these cars unfortunately!
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Carolyn

May I suggest that you take both wheels off and inspect the lot, while you're doing it?

Also you might buy some 'Ceratec' lubricant and clean and lube all the sliders.  It's a regular maintenance kind of job well worth doing.

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chrismscotland

Thanks folks, is there a guide anywhere to what I should be looking out for?
Don't mind doing the maintenance, it looks like the cars done little mileage over the last 4-5 years, I guess sitting around probably hasn't helped it!

Joesson

Quote from: chrismscotland on August 28, 2018, 08:47
Thanks folks, is there a guide anywhere to what I should be looking out for?
Don't mind doing the maintenance, it looks like the cars done little mileage over the last 4-5 years, I guess sitting around probably hasn't helped it!

I believe this is one of the reasons why Manufacturers quote Miles and/or Time as periods for inspection and servicing.

Carolyn

The fist thing to do is have a go at removong the slider bolt.  It has 12 mm head and it goes though the bottom end of the caliper into the carrier.

If you get that out OK, then try to rotate the caliper on the other slider.  It may well all be pretty stiff.  Work it back and forth until you can slide the caliper off the pin.

Check that the pads are not distorted or bound up at funny angles.

Clean both the slider bolt and the sleeve it slides in and clean the big slider pin on the carrier.

Lubricate with Ceratec and put it back together.

You can do it!!
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chrismscotland

#8
Having a look at my drivers rear brake, managed to remove the slider bolt but the calliper itself doesn't want to budge at all  :-\

Carolyn

Got a mallet?  Just a bit in each direction until it gives in.

If that doesn't work.  Remove the two bolts with 17 mm heads that hold the caliper to the hub. You'll need 1/2" drive and an extension.  Pull the caliper off the disc and use a pry bar to loosen the slider.

If that doesn't work, loosely re-attach the caliper to the hub (just to hold it while you...) Get some brake hose pliers from your local parts shop.  Pinch off the brake hose.  Loosen the 14 mm bolt that holds the hose banjo to the caliper.  Remove the retaining clip that goes through the brake cable pin.  Knock the pin out.  Using a hammer and big screwdriver, knock out the retaining clip that holds the handbrake cable to the caliper.  disconnect the handbrake cable.

Take the caliper off the car.

Put it in a vice and get it to move. It WILL give in to your will at some point.
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chrismscotland

Going to give up for the night and now I can't even get the slider bolt back in, just turns and turns and doesn't seem to find the thread, arghhhh!

Carolyn

Quote from: chrismscotland on August 28, 2018, 20:12
Going to give up for the night and now I can't even get the slider bolt back in, just turns and turns and doesn't seem to find the thread, arghhhh!

That means you have moved the caliper a little and the holes now don't line up.  Keep going, there's light at the end of the tunnel. :D
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lamcote

#12
Can I ask a brief question? When lubricating the slider with the long 12mm bolt, do you lubricate along the bolt or do you take the rubber boots off and lubricate outside the slider cylinder, if that makes sense? Or do you do both?
Thanks
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Carolyn

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lamcote

Thanks. Why does it take so long to get answers on this forum? I was waiting almost 9 minutes that time!!!!!
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Ardent


chrismscotland

Managed to get the bolt back in, had moved it a little in the end, managed to free the Caliper too as suggested with the mallet and a bit of effort!

Still not entirely sure what's causing the noise but I've decided to let the local garage over the road take a look tomorrow!!

Carolyn

Well - there's no doubt, now, you've got stuck sliders.  Probably stuck pads as well.  Not a massive deal. :)
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chrismscotland

Local garage have taken a look this morning, Drivers Rear Side is in dire need of Pads, Discs and the Caliper being replaced and the other side isn't far off - its been an expensive first couple of weeks of ownership,probably my own fault though, didn't notice anything wrong with the brakes when I bought the car.

Carolyn

Just a word of caution.  Garages always want to replace calipers instead of fixing them.  It's the modern culture, replace rather than repair.

You can get reconditioned calipers for a reasonable price from Bigg Red.  Probably much less expensive than the garage will charge for them.  http://www.biggred.co.uk/

Discs and pads are also readily available for not a lot of money. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=mr2+mk3+brake+pads+and+discs+rear&_sacat=0

Have them check the handbrake cables for freedom of movement.

Fear not, you can expect to do brakes on any older used car.  I always reckon £300-400 to get any used car sorted.
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chrismscotland

I'd added up the costs of the parts they're charging v sourcing elsewhere (EuroCarParts locally) and they look like they've been fair enough on pricing, they seem decent actually will be using them in future for stuff I'm not willing to do myself.

I take heart from the fact that cosmetically the car is in really nice condition save a few minor scrapes that I can sort out myself, I guess I'm a little dissapointed that someone who waxed lyrical about selling hundreds of MR2's and was actually a mechanic sold it with that amount of cost of work needing done to it without a mention, you live and learn.

Carolyn

Quote from: chrismscotland on August 31, 2018, 11:57
I'd added up the costs of the parts they're charging v sourcing elsewhere (EuroCarParts locally) and they look like they've been fair enough on pricing, they seem decent actually will be using them in future for stuff I'm not willing to do myself.

I take heart from the fact that cosmetically the car is in really nice condition save a few minor scrapes that I can sort out myself, I guess I'm a little dissapointed that someone who waxed lyrical about selling hundreds of MR2's and was actually a mechanic sold it with that amount of cost of work needing done to it without a mention, you live and learn.

Caveat Emptor!!
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Gatouzze

Quote from: Carolyn on August 31, 2018, 11:46
Just a word of caution.  Garages always want to replace calipers instead of fixing them.  It's the modern culture, replace rather than repair.

You can get reconditioned calipers for a reasonable price from Bigg Red.  Probably much less expensive than the garage will charge for them.  http://www.biggred.co.uk/

Do the calipers need to be sent to them or is it a standard replacement where you send the old calipers when installing the new one to get a refund?

Carolyn

Can't answer that one.  I re-furbished mine myself.

I'm sure they'll tell you if you ask. :)
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