Parts catalogue gurus

[Bossworld]

Can anyone make sense of this one?

My well documented problems with the wishbone mean I need a new bolt and flange nut.

Simple enough, a bit pricey but I'm now in possession of:

90119-12338 Bolt w.washer £4.14

90178-12013 Nut, flange £2.04

The rear of the nut has four large raised parts at 12 o'clock, 3, 6 and 9.

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The offside (which is complete) only had this bolt with washer, and the nut.

The nearside - I had to grind off the bolt with washer, and the nut.

The Toyota parts desk advised they couldn't tell if the bolt came with the washer, so also ordered

90560-19014 Spacer £2.76

The service desk guy suggests this goes in front of the nut.  But, the hole is massive.  There's no obvious way it would be centered, and given there wasn't one that came off the car, I'm not sure what its purpose is.  Plus, that's a canny expensive price for a shite copy of a wedding ring.

Can anyone decipher the need, or purpose, for said spacer from any of these diagrams?  I think he's done me out of a bag of chips 



The bolt is part 5 on here:

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-control-arm-mount-bolt-9011912338

The spacer is listed as a non-descript standard part on here

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_200208_TOYOTA_MR2_ZZW30R-AKFQHW_4802.html?hl=9017812013

And here's where I need help.  It is shown on this particular diagram (though not on other similar ones online), as the dealer suggested

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/toyota/part?catalog=US&model_code=ZZW30L-AKMQHW&group=4802

[Ardent]

Zzwr30L zzwr30R
Us vs eu uk spec?

[Bossworld]

Also features on 6MT RHD

(if the link works)

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=%24%2AKwFSZndoIiBTLi4qNTJwYgoePjknVllUVUdCQgQhHUUDCAJGAwUHQgcPA0JbRFABBxlCTUQODkNcRg0PGlBUUSRCHBgSUFNrG0MFBEJbRkYLBhpSUlZFTEFEDU0VEUBDNiYyICtGFRcJDQJEXUBDPD5uBBsyTCcsJjAuMxsbC0IXBUVaQQgRVVsHQEMADgRDXEQIBlYAAAAAJuRPTw%24&vid=0&cid=2&uid=81043&q=

I guess with a lot of persuasion/hammering it could possibly go over the exposed end of the bushing, and maybe that's what the (2) refers to (one either side? ).  But what would the point be, other than something else to rust into the mount?  It wouldn't be load bearing.

[Joesson]

The nut looks to be very purposely designed. The spacer/ washer clearly has nothing to do with the bolt as the diameters do not match. As I understand it the wishbone bush should be free to "rotate" on the bolt unless there is a seperate spacer tube through the bush. The parts diagrams do show a washer behind the nut, as is standard practice. Was there a washer as OE? Maybe the spacer is an incorrect part?

[Call the midlife!]

Those types of nuts are usually used without a washer aren't they? I thought the idea was you tighten the bolt into the nut and the lobes stop it coming loose on its own.?


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[Bossworld]

The nut looks to be very purposely designed. The spacer/ washer clearly has nothing to do with the bolt as the diameters do not match. As I understand it the wishbone bush should be free to "rotate" on the bolt unless there is a seperate spacer tube through the bush. The parts diagrams do show a washer behind the nut, as is standard practice. Was there a washer as OE? Maybe the spacer is an incorrect part?

The nut is a flange nut. The more I look at it, I think in the diagram it goes in between the rubber bush and the mount. The bushing is the only logical thing that's about the size of the hole. But, there wasn't one of these spacers fitted on the parts that came out, and I don't see how it would serve any structural purpose.

I'm just going to stick it in the cupboard of spares but it baffles me as to why it's on the diagram and why the Toyota parts dept was adamant it was right to order it.

Those types of nuts are usually used without a washer aren't they? I thought the idea was you tighten the bolt into the nut and the lobes stop it coming loose on its own.?


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I would agree and the service manual specifically states not to turn the nut.

[Joesson]

How does the wishbone assembly move when this bolt is tightened?

[Bossworld]

How does the wishbone assembly move when this bolt is tightened?

The service manual states to install, but not tighten, all four bolts prior to torquing.

If only that bolt was installed and tightened, I believe you'd be able to rotate the wishbone about the bushing but that's all. To what level of movement, I'm not sure as it would also depend on whether the wishbone was roughly in position prior to tightening, or whether it had been left perpendicular to the floorpan

[Joesson]

That's what I can' t understand about this item . As I undestand it the wishbone assembly must move up and down. This would mean some movement in the area of the bush. If the bush is clamped tight that would allow the wishbone to move only as allowed by the rotational flexing of the bush, not very much. If the bush is intended to rotate about the bolt, to increase the allowable movement, how is that achieved with the bolt tightened and clamping the bush. If the bush has an independent sleeve then rotation would be possible. That being the case the spacer/ s previously referred to could be required.
As said, I don't understand what is intended to happen and that bugs me.
In any event, given the problem you had with removing the old one I would use some copper grease on the metal parts during reassembly. But then that raises the question about torque values if the thread is also greased!

[Carolyn]

I'd grease the shaft of the bolt, not the thread. 

If the rear suspension is anything to go by, the movement is in the rubber.  So it makes sense to jack the hub to approximately ride height before tightening up.  That way it's in the middle of its range.

[Joesson]

I'd grease the shaft of the bolt, not the thread. 

If the rear suspension is anything to go by, the movement is in the rubber.  So it makes sense to jack the hub to approximately ride height before tightening up.  That way it's in the middle of its range.

Thanks for that @Carolyn, I guess I've been over thinking the problem.

[Bossworld]

I'd grease the shaft of the bolt, not the thread. 

If the rear suspension is anything to go by, the movement is in the rubber.  So it makes sense to jack the hub to approximately ride height before tightening up.  That way it's in the middle of its range.

Indeed, and again the service manual suggests to stabilise the suspension before going for final torque values. 

Apparently my better half doesn't want this spacer as a ring 

There wasn't one fitted before, I ain't bothering to fit it.  At least the thread exists for the next time the question gets asked lol.  I spotted a thread on these parts in the TCB forum and Paul hasn't mentioned the requirement for one either.

The thread of the new bolt  has red loctite applied to it already.  On the driver's side, I put a very light touch of copper grease against the mounting points (just with the intention that the washer/nut wouldn't freeze to the car again but not on the bolts themselves.

[Carolyn]

I'd grease the shaft of the bolt, not the thread. 

If the rear suspension is anything to go by, the movement is in the rubber.  So it makes sense to jack the hub to approximately ride height before tightening up.  That way it's in the middle of its range.

Indeed, and again the service manual suggests to stabilise the suspension before going for final torque values. 

Apparently my better half doesn't want this spacer as a ring 

There wasn't one fitted before, I ain't bothering to fit it.  At least the thread exists for the next time the question gets asked lol.  I spotted a thread on these parts in the TCB forum and Paul hasn't mentioned the requirement for one either.

The thread of the new bolt  has red loctite applied to it already.  On the driver's side, I put a very light touch of copper grease against the mounting points (just with the intention that the washer/nut wouldn't freeze to the car again but not on the bolts themselves.

When you consider that the bolts tend to seize in the bushing (they do at the rear too) it makes sense to grease the part of the bolt that sits in the bushing, i.e. the shaft.

[jonbill]

Fwiw, BMW's service manuals instruct you to put the car on its wheels and put 2 adults inside and 100kg In the boot (or something like that!) before tightening and torquing bushes so they're operating in the right range.
I guess the idea is that the vast majority of flexing of the bush is in compression, so the best rest position is somewhat compressed.