Power steering pipes

[Mark A]

Does anybody have a PS pipes relacement step by step guide?

Cheers Mark

[Bossworld]

Does anybody have a PS pipes relacement step by step guide?

Cheers Mark

Don't think I've seen a step by step but I would recommend referring to one of the power steering fluid change guides in the main . Believe there is one on here.

To remove the pipes themselves, from memory you will need to remove:

Frunk plastics (plastic rivets, push in with screwdriver then remove body)
Frunk lid (simply unclips and pulls up)
Spare wheel
Frunk itself (4 x 10mm bolts)
Alarm (if not already relocated)

The pipes themselves, at the pump end:

Pair of pliers to remove the soft hose clamp
Spanner to remove the hard union

Further down the pipes, there are one, if not two, bolts securing brackets to the chassis. Just use a ratchet, carefully, to undo them as they're likely bound by rust

There are then two unions into the rack, undo with a spanner.

Refitting is just the reversal. Assuming you're using pattern parts, pay careful attention to the angles of the unions attaching into the rack, and the brackets. I had to remove one of the brackets as the pipes just physically wouldn't fit to both the unions and the bracket point on the chassis. Put that down to poor pattern part quality.

Only other note - check if there are o rings on either the pipes coming off or the new ones, at the rack end. I don't recall if mine had any, but I had a slight weep at first, and ended up having to tighten them more than I felt comfortable.

[ManInDandism]

I ordered a set of the pipes off eBay over the weekend and they arrived today. £99 from a seller called Foreign Car Spares or FCS (who I went with because I like the 100% feedback on 5000+ items).  Has since raised the price to £125 but there you go.

Anyway - I can report that they do have O-rings present where they connect to the rack just as shown in the Toyota repair manual. That said, If I where to do the job myself - which I won't be on account of not having the time (!), I would take heed to what @Bossworld says and also go with a bit of PTFE tape.  As anyone who has ever changed a domestic radiator knows, liquid always has that tendency to find it's way out through the threads.  I can also forewarn the mechanic that the may not sit as tidily as the originals,  though I think that is a poor show - it's not like they've had to copy an intricate design.

There have been spots of oily stuff on my driveway from the front of the car for a month or so but I just ignored it as put it down to my attempt to grease the rather nasty looking steering UJ. I thought that this was maybe dripping with the hot sun. I went to take car out on Sunday and the steering was unusually whiny.  Took frunk plastics off to reveal no PAS fluid showing in the reservoir.  Fortunately I have a bottle of Ravenol E-PSF at home as I had intended to flush it. Probably required 200 ml to bring it back to the 'min' cold level.  I've now also got a replacement lower steering union joint so will be getting that done at the same time.

[moredun]

forget the PTFE tape, use sump gasket sealant instead  ;-)

[ManInDandism]

Just to report that have had the pipes fitted and in my case they are absolutely spot on. 

Obviously not done myself but quizzed the mechanic after forewarning him of possible alignment issues but he said there was no problem at all.  Don't know if it is the exact same pattern as above or whether has been revised but looks all need and tidy.

[delhusband]

Know this hasn't been posted to in a while, but how much time did this take? Looks like main issues will be the mounting bracket bolt rusted into place, and I've seen on another thread that removing the pipes from the rack end wasn't easy. Also, did you just hand tighten the connectors at the rack end or did you use SST or equivalent to torque up? @Bossworld

[Bossworld]

Know this hasn't been posted to in a while, but how much time did this take? Looks like main issues will be the mounting bracket bolt rusted into place, and I've seen on another thread that removing the pipes from the rack end wasn't easy. Also, did you just hand tighten the connectors at the rack end or did you use SST or equivalent to torque up? @Bossworld

Hi Del,

Sorry, got a notification for a PM so have logged in for the first time in months.

It's about an hours' work tops, biggest PITA is having to lean over the car as it'll do your back.

The pattern pipes I got needed a lot more force than I was comfortable with IMO, I don't own a crow's foot for the torque wrench so was using open ended spanners.  Think I've read somewhere else since, that someone else used PTFE tape around the threads, which I think would make sense (though could in itself lead to overtightening)?

[delhusband]

Know this hasn't been posted to in a while, but how much time did this take? Looks like main issues will be the mounting bracket bolt rusted into place, and I've seen on another thread that removing the pipes from the rack end wasn't easy. Also, did you just hand tighten the connectors at the rack end or did you use SST or equivalent to torque up? @Bossworld

Hi Del,

Sorry, got a notification for a PM so have logged in for the first time in months.

It's about an hours' work tops, biggest PITA is having to lean over the car as it'll do your back.

The pattern pipes I got needed a lot more force than I was comfortable with IMO, I don't own a crow's foot for the torque wrench so was using open ended spanners.  Think I've read somewhere else since, that someone else used PTFE tape around the threads, which I think would make sense (though could in itself lead to overtightening)?

Cheers got it done in around 3hrs, went slow. Was also applying a bit of force to angle the pipes into the rack. Was sorry to see you're selling the car.

[Bossworld]

Know this hasn't been posted to in a while, but how much time did this take? Looks like main issues will be the mounting bracket bolt rusted into place, and I've seen on another thread that removing the pipes from the rack end wasn't easy. Also, did you just hand tighten the connectors at the rack end or did you use SST or equivalent to torque up? @Bossworld

Hi Del,

Sorry, got a notification for a PM so have logged in for the first time in months.

It's about an hours' work tops, biggest PITA is having to lean over the car as it'll do your back.

The pattern pipes I got needed a lot more force than I was comfortable with IMO, I don't own a crow's foot for the torque wrench so was using open ended spanners.  Think I've read somewhere else since, that someone else used PTFE tape around the threads, which I think would make sense (though could in itself lead to overtightening)?

Cheers got it done in around 3hrs, went slow. Was also applying a bit of force to angle the pipes into the rack. Was sorry to see you're selling the car.

I gave it to my Mum so it's still in the family (and hers is up for sale at some point).  I just needed a motorway hack.  Glad you got sorted with the pipes.

[Nordoff]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but it came up when searching.

The hose that bolts into the pump, is it a normal thread or reverse thread? Mine is really tight, everything else is easy enough to undo and replacement hoses are on order.

Edit,  just to confirm it was normal thread just a bit seized.

[Bossworld]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but it came up when searching.

The hose that bolts into the pump, is it a normal thread or reverse thread? Mine is really tight, everything else is easy enough to undo and replacement hoses are on order.

I'm 99% sure is normal, I can't think of anything specific I've had to do mechanically that's reverse other than a left-sided bike pedal!