Driveshaft/hub nut thread size?

[JB21]

Anyone know the thread size and pitch on FL driveshafts?

Got some new 30mm nuts from mr Ben (link below), but they don't even come close and couldn't even get one turn on them. I ended up rounding the inner threads on one nut trying to force it.

https://mr2-ben.co.uk/products/1315

I've had to use the old nuts, but as I had to dremmel the locking tabs out I can't lock them back in place.

I'm thinking the threads are the common M24 x 1.5 pitch?

[JB21]

So found the size, its a M22 x 1.5.

Found a Ford item thats works a treat and is a 6 point not 12 point like the Toyota item, plus only £3 delivered.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Edge-Front-Wheel-Knuckle-Retaining-Nut-M22-X-1-5MM-5267273-/273421375947?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[Mr Lazy]

@JB21 I've just seen this thread and I'm in a similar predicament myself. New nuts from Mr T just wont go on more that a few threads, and neither will the nuts supplied with some new bearings (which I haven't fitted yet). How did the Ford ones work out? The part that you are supposed to deform to keep it in place looks very thick. Did you manage it with standard tools?

[Joesson]

@JB21 I've just seen this thread and I'm in a similar predicament myself. New nuts from Mr T just wont go on more that a few threads, and neither will the nuts supplied with some new bearings (which I haven't fitted yet). How did the Ford ones work out? The part that you are supposed to deform to keep it in place looks very thick. Did you manage it with standard tools?

I've done that on other cars in the past with a sharp cold chisel and hammer, but the photograph shows a much thicker section than I recall.

[JB21]

@JB21 I've just seen this thread and I'm in a similar predicament myself. New nuts from Mr T just wont go on more that a few threads, and neither will the nuts supplied with some new bearings (which I haven't fitted yet). How did the Ford ones work out? The part that you are supposed to deform to keep it in place looks very thick. Did you manage it with standard tools?

The Ford one threaded straight on and no locking tabs to mess about with. Before ordering the Ford ones try filing down slightly the very ends of the shaft thread, just to see if that helps with the OE nut fitment. For the locking tab, just use a big flat head the knock it in.

[Mr Lazy]

Thanks both of you. I'm at my wits end to be honest. I was going to get the bearings replaced but everything is taking too long and I just want to get the car back together now. I've spent ages trying to file down rough edges and clean the thread. The new ones go on about eight threads (or less before I cleaned it up) but then just locks up. I've already cross threaded one of the axle threads because with a torque specification of 216Nm I just assumed it was meant to be tight. Big mistake and very stupid of me.
So if these Ford ones don't have a locking tab then how can you be sure that they will stay in place?

[Joesson]

This is the type of drive shaft nut I was referring to. There is a key way in the shat and a section of the fixing nut is designed to be deformed to prevent rotation after torquing or tightening as required.

https://www.quora.com/What-are-the-design-constraints-of-the-lock-nut-of-a-drive-shaft

If the new nuts won't go on and assuming those threads are correctly formed the axle threads are likely slightly damaged, not too difficult to do!
A die nut is the tool to use and will recut any imperfections, but you ( and I ) haven't got one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310360275801
The shaft thread needs a good looking at and if any nick can be seen a very fine file could be used,alternatively/ also I would lubricate the nut and start it onto the thread, continuing till resistance is felt and then back off and tighten again, and repeat. This can help reform the thread.

[TheTigerUK]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184917180671?hash=item2b0dec40ff:g:8TcAAOSwlztgLO9j

[Joesson]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184917180671?hash=item2b0dec40ff:g:8TcAAOSwlztgLO9j

That's a better price!
Ps for £25.62 there is a  die nut and tap further down that eBay page!!

[TheTigerUK]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184917180671?hash=item2b0dec40ff:g:8TcAAOSwlztgLO9j

That's a better price!
Ps for £25.62 there is a  die nut and tap further down that eBay page!!

Perhaps worth buying and sharing it for a small cost to those that need it ?

[Mr Lazy]

@Joesson I've tried a fine file and also lubricated the nut but it doesn't work. I think you're right, it needs a die, although the cross threaded side is quite a mess, so I'll have to approach that one very carefully.

Thanks @TheTigerUK, that looks like a great price. I'd be more that happy to lend it to others if I get one. No fee required. Do you think I'd need a proper handle or do you think a spanner would be good enough? I'm thinking in terms of keeping it aligned correctly.

[TheTigerUK]

@Joesson I've tried a fine file and also lubricated the nut but it doesn't work. I think you're right, it needs a die, although the cross threaded side is quite a mess, so I'll have to approach that one very carefully.

Thanks @TheTigerUK, that looks like a great price. I'd be more that happy to lend it to others if I get one. No fee required. Do you think I'd need a proper handle or do you think a spanner would be good enough? I'm thinking in terms of keeping it aligned correctly.

Normally just start the nut by hand and then use a spanner to run it down.

[Joesson]

@Joesson I've tried a fine file and also lubricated the nut but it doesn't work. I think you're right, it needs a die, although the cross threaded side is quite a mess, so I'll have to approach that one very carefully.

Thanks @TheTigerUK, that looks like a great price. I'd be more that happy to lend it to others if I get one. No fee required. Do you think I'd need a proper handle or do you think a spanner would be good enough? I'm thinking in terms of keeping it aligned correctly.

Normally just start the nut by hand and then use a spanner to run it down.

As mentioned above there is a die nut and tap offer also.
Remember that as when forming a new thread - keep lubricating and backing off, don't just apply more force if you feel resistance, back off and go again, and repeat.
With the damaged thread consider removing the die nut and cleaning it and the thread with an old toothbrush, repeat  and go again. Don't just keep on going until there is little or no resistance.

[Beachbum957]

Sometimes the threads are bad enough a die is very difficult to start.  Another possible solution is a thread file.  I cleaned up our axle that was damaged enough a die wouldn't start.  The damage appeared to be from someone trying to remove the nut without unstaking it properly.  Here is just an example.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/files/5423391

The nut itself is still used on a lot of Toyota models. Some Hondas used a 6 point M22-1.5 axle nut with the flange than can be staked.

[Mr Lazy]

@Beachbum957 I really like the look of that file, I haven't seen one before. I was worried about starting the die on a thread that is damaged from the end inwards, rather than starting it on good thread. This could well be the answer.

[Mr Lazy]

I thought I'd give a quick update. I first bought the file. It is great at cleaning rust from threads and has already proven useful in other applications, but it didn't do anything to the metal itself despite persistent filing. It was therefore no good for this.
I then bought a die. The cheap one on ebay was (I think) out of stock and would have taken a long time to get here. I was also dubious of using a cheap, unbranded part on something that required a degree of precision. I therefore bought a midrange, branded die from Cromwell tools for 40 off quid. Due to their Christmas lockdown, I was only able to collect it yesterday. It cut the thread well and, to my surprise, worked a treat on the damaged side, enabling me to fit a new nut without any trouble.
On the undamaged (by me) side though (that I was still unable to thread a nut on to), I still have problems. I cannot rethread the entire length of the thread because it is recessed into the hub. Where I stopped rethreading, I cannot thread the nut on any further (despite the thread looking undamaged). I have applied a torque of up to 60Nm so far, which is excessive given that it isn't even screwed in to the end yet. I have just tried disconnecting the strut and one of the suspension arms in an effort to release the shaft from the hub/bearing assembly, but it won't budge, even when hit on the end with a rubber mallet. I'm now out of ideas, other than hitting it harder or tightening the nut harder, both of which will probably result in damage.

[Joesson]

@Mr Lazy
Thank you very much for the update and pleased to hear that the damaged thread has been revived with the die nut.
I don't know what to say about the other, "undamaged", side other than  torquing a fastening is a method of predetermining the locking effect of the thread.
Any correctly formed, undamaged screw thread/ nut combination should be free to move, typically without leverage from a wrench until final tightening to a prescribed torque value.
I suggest that you persevere with trying to remove the shaft from the hub so that you can use the die nut to rectify the thread.
How you remove the shaft from the hub I do not know but I believe there are those on here that can advise.