MOT Failure Today

[normanh]

The 2 failed today on offside handbrake - I confirmed that the cable is totally seized with almost no movement-less than a few millimetres if that.

So -

Where's best to source the cables, I guess they are only sold in pairs? This is the second cable failure I have had in some 18 years so cant moan

I seem to remember so where seeing that the cable lengths vary, buying a pair what one goes where?

I am having the repair undertaken in a local garage as I just dont have the time, it took over 2 hours to get the bloody clevis pin out as it was totally sold. The lever mechanism on the calliper seems totally free.

The good news - passed emission's although first try CO was above 0.30, second try was 0.26 so passed.

Norman 

[tricky1138]

I got mine from Paul at TCP parts.

Like others will say, it's best to get genuine. You could try main dealers but I'm sure Paul will be cheaper.

You can buy each side singularly, but as you have to lower the fuel tank to replace, you might as well replace both while you are in there. Why pay twice for a job you might have to do on the other cable next year. Just get them both done!

[Call the midlife!]

As Tricky says above, just to add that genuine Toyota ones are colour coded so just match the existing one, assuming you can see the paint on the old ones still 🤓

[Ardent]

What they ^^^^^ said.

[cyclehead]

I'm doing this to prevent my new brake cables from seizing.   https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/parking-brake-cable-preventive-maintenance.157480/post-2152655

[Joesson]

How to Remove the Toyota MR2 Spyder Gas Tank & Replace the Parking Brake Cables

I found this on the www,

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=guFHV9Aphto&feature=emb_rel_end

The OE cables are markedR& L respectively on one of the cable fixing brackets.

It shows the positions and types of the multitude of clips and fastenings, which seemed very helpful, also the job is somewhat simplified if there is no air con and therefore hoses in the way.

[105e]

Got 15 minutes in before i got bored, all those plastic connectors, sure to break one.

[SV-3]

How to Remove the Toyota MR2 Spyder Gas Tank & Replace the Parking Brake Cables

I found this on the www,

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=guFHV9Aphto&feature=emb_rel_end

The OE cables are markedR& L respectively on one of the cable fixing brackets.

It shows the positions and types of the multitude of clips and fastenings, which seemed very helpful, also the job is somewhat simplified if there is no air con and therefore hoses in the way.

Brilliant - thanks for posting this.
Got to be one of the best videos and methodologies to perform this task.
Potentially explains why so many have problems - sometimes there just isn't a 'shortcut'

[Dev]

How to Remove the Toyota MR2 Spyder Gas Tank & Replace the Parking Brake Cables

I found this on the www,

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=guFHV9Aphto&feature=emb_rel_end

The OE cables are markedR& L respectively on one of the cable fixing brackets.

It shows the positions and types of the multitude of clips and fastenings, which seemed very helpful, also the job is somewhat simplified if there is no air con and therefore hoses in the way.

Brilliant - thanks for posting this.
Got to be one of the best videos and methodologies to perform this task.
Potentially explains why so many have problems - sometimes there just isn't a 'shortcut'

There is a successful shortcut that has worked for me and others. The problem with doing it the long way on an old car with those plastic clips disturbed is a recipe for more potential things to go wrong afterwards like weeping fuel that smells up the cabin which has been reported.

 It is always advisable to do the job right but after working with those clips on the fuel pump and other reported issues with the charcoal canister tubing from a member that dropped their tank I would want to avoid touching them at all costs or at the very least replace them while I am there.
Sometimes trying to fix a specific problem by removing other parts to get to it on an aged car makes a straight foreword repair more complex.

[Ardent]

Superb find. Superb video.

That is a keeper.

And right at the very beginning. He shows the old cables. Their shape alone tells us  why the parking brake is poor.
Look at the path the cable has to follow.

Just like Steve said. A soft S curve.
No wonder it struggles. Not a straight line anywhere.

[Carolyn]

I've done a couple of handbrake cable jobs.  You don't have to remove the tank.

I drop the tank using the four bolts until they are nearly undone.  That gave enough room the get in the gap and unbolt the cable mounts and bolt in the new ones.

I've also done gear cables.  THEN the tank did have to be fully dropped.

[Gaz mr-s]

I'm doing this to prevent my new brake cables from seizing.   https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/parking-brake-cable-preventive-maintenance.157480/post-2152655

I'm doing this to prevent my new brake cables from seizing.   https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/parking-brake-cable-preventive-maintenance.157480/post-2152655

Have you heard about fitting these?  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113230491760?hash=item1a5d103070:g:SnkAAMXQUmFSphV6

[Ardent]

I've done a couple of handbrake cable jobs.  You don't have to remove the tank.

I drop the tank using the four bolts until they are nearly undone.  That gave enough room the get in the gap and unbolt the cable mounts and bolt in the new ones.

I've also done gear cables.  THEN the tank did have to be fully dropped.

Steve the same.
Lowering as much as can on the bolt gives enough.

[normanh]

Ordered cable from MR2-Ben seems to be mid range price, machined up a new clevis pin in a good stainless steel this afternoon. Booked in the garage for Monday for fitting and retest.

Norman

[Bossworld]

As others have said you've done the right thing going genuine.

I had to have two aftermarket pairs fitted, one substantially better than the other set, but there are different lengths FL and PFL (aftermarket at least).

[Ardent]

How to Remove the Toyota MR2 Spyder Gas Tank & Replace the Parking Brake Cables

I found this on the www,

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=guFHV9Aphto&feature=emb_rel_end

The OE cables are markedR& L respectively on one of the cable fixing brackets.

It shows the positions and types of the multitude of clips and fastenings, which seemed very helpful, also the job is somewhat simplified if there is no air con and therefore hoses in the way.

In addition to the markings. And seen in the video. (skip to 21:50) Shows the part number as well. Nice.
The oem cables are also colour coded.
I had noticed this on mine. One side yellow one white.
Which suggests my cables are probably the original.
The colour tabs or tape can be seen somewhere between the caliper and where they disappear. More towards where they disappear out of sight.

[normanh]

Mines yellow, still has the colour tab in place, I think this is the cable replaced under warranty many years back.

Norman

[Alex Knight]

Just to add to the mix, I fitted new Blueprint (brand) handbrake cables in 2017 and have had zero issues with the handbrake or MOT since then. Perhaps a slightly cheaper alternative for someone?

To add to this, my car is always parked off road, and I do not park the car with the handbrake engaged since 2017. I only ever engage the handbrake if I ever have to park the car on any sort of steep gradient (hardly ever).

[Ardent]

probably too late for me. But I do the same.

[TheTigerUK]

What is the issue with the hand brake ? is it cable stretch ?

[Ardent]

The jury is out on this.

A few moving parts in question.
No single smoking gun. But a few usual suspects.

Cables? Possibly.
Calipers? Possibly.
Fluid? Possibly.
Combo of above? Probably.

[normanh]

The issue here is the cable is totally seized - no/little movement at all. The sprung lever is totally free! No pull no handbrake. Confirmed when I released the cable by removing the clevis pin!

Norman

[normanh]

All sorted and MOT passed labour cost was about £160 so happy with that.

Norman

[normanh]

Looking to replace each front suspension units - shocks, mounts, rubber stops, rubber sleeves for the shocks my springs are corroded. I'll make provision for the droplinks if required. I intend to replace with OEM from WYB where possible by shopping around, is there anything else I need to consider? The reason - I had an advisory on gthe condition of the springs being rusty, the powdercoat has flaked off with a bit of rust. Thought I would do each as a package one on one off to save time by replacing all. I am not interested in lowering or spending excessive dosh such as coilovers.

Norman

[Carolyn]

A bit of rust on the springs is normal.  The paint flakes off fairly quickly.  That advisory is so common but it isn't a big deal.

You'll almost certainly be cutting the old drop links off, if they are original to the car, so budget them in.