Sticking clutch pedal

[M.Dub]

Just took the car for a quick drive and the clutch pedal stuck down to the floor after a mile or two, I pulled it back up then it worked fine again for a while.

It seems that when I hold the bite point the pedal gets lower and then sticks? Any ideas?

The fluid is on the min mark, would that cause the problem?

Thanks

[Joesson]

@M.Dub

The fluid on the min. mark means that the missing fluid has leaked out. If you have some brake fluid, first top up the clutch system.
That may help, temporarily  but it is likely that the seals and/ or the cylinder is worn.
The seals are likely replaceable but the cylinder is now very old and likely worn so a replacement would be the better option.
If you can do this yourself an inspection of the cylinder would determine the best case.
If a garage does it they would replace the cylinder.

[M.Dub]

Thanks for the reply,

I'll try topping and see if that does anything. I haven't noticed any patches on the floor so hopefully not leaking.

Is it a DIY job to replace the cylinder?

Any advise on how to replace it would be appreciated

Thanks

[Call the midlife!]

If there's a leak in the system then the chances are it's also got air in it, topping it up won't really help unless you bleed it too.

[M.Dub]

I'm going to bleed and replace the fluid first of all.

Where do you bleed it from? I'm guessing at the rear somewhere?

Thanks

[Call the midlife!]

I'm going to bleed and replace the fluid first of all.

Where do you bleed it from? I'm guessing at the rear somewhere?

Thanks

Slave cylinder is underneath the car in the middle by the front engine mount, bleed nipple is there. Can be a complete pig to do too so be prepared, can't use a pressure bleeder either as it's a clip on cap.

[Joesson]

I'm going to bleed and replace the fluid first of all.

Where do you bleed it from? I'm guessing at the rear somewhere?

Thanks

I have mentioned, more than once on here something that I first used in the mid '60's to bleed brakes. Today a new one can cost less than £2 and that is perhaps why it gets overlooked.
However something that has not changed in around 60 years and still sells at such a price must have some takers.
And, I used this to bleed the clutch slave cylinder, solo. As with many things where you need to be at opposite ends of the car at the same time an assistant is always helpful, but this device is so simple to use by yourself.
I put the " split end " into a container, preferably with something heavy in it to keep it from moving and away you go.
The end doesn't even need to be immersed in the fluid to work.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-125814-wot-nots-brake-bleed-tube-automatic-pwn189.aspx

OR

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162724312738?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D94b1c5ce600c44ffb423e08babac963d%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D264368968006%26itm%3D162724312738%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWebV9BertRefreshRankerWithCassiniEmbRecall&_trksid=p4429486.c101224.m-1

[Joesson]

@M.Dub said:

Is it a DIY job to replace the cylinder?

All things on here are DIY, just depends on "yourself" and your circumstances.
 
If no four post lift or similar available to you it is up on car ramps or jack up, onto axle  stands and get under on your back type of job.

Only two fixings and a hydraulic connection.

Only ever bled mine but it can't be that difficult to change.

[Carolyn]

The slave cylinder is two M8 bolts (12mm socket).  Crack the hydraulic hose loose before you unbolt it from the gearbox.

However, the problem may well be with the master cylinder sticking.  A fiddly job with your head in the footwell to disconnect from the pedal. Best to take the seat out (four bolts and an electrical connection). 

Do the slave cylinder first....

[Bossworld]

Slave is accessible but moving the line back out of the way is tricky. The bleed nipple *should* be easier to undo as less prone to crap from the roads, in comparison to a brake nipple.

I took the opportunity to completely clean out the reservoir of fluid, but as others have alluded to, it's a pig to bleed. If you can leave it overnight, from memory, gravity helped.

I also unhooked the cotter pin from the clutch pedal, detatched the rod, and manually actuated it by hand (wear padded gloves).  Took about 20 goes, but it got fluid down the system again, and then was able to bleed as normal.

[M.Dub]

Thanks all, some valuable information very much appreciated.