Fender Struts [Pictures and review added]

[Anonymous]

I will be going to Kuala Lumpur on Tuesday to custom make a pair of fender struts. These struts are something like this.



The cost will be about 90 pounds.

As most of the vehicle's front chassis over hanging is designated to carry the vertical loads from the front suspensions, it is vital that this part of the chassis is strong enough to take the bounce and rebound force of the suspension. Else, the effort of a good suspension will lose its meaning if the chassis absorbs all the forces from the suspension and not letting the suspension does what it suppose to do.

Therefore, these high quality 3-Point fender struts will strengthen and reinforce these essential areas of your car, help maintaining the suspension in position from all kind of  vertical loads.

As a matter of fact, fenders struts come as a standard feature on most of the high performance vehicles such as MITSUBISHI EVO and SUBARU WRX.

Advantage of the fender struts

    * Improve handling, stability at high speed and cornering.
    * Provide a better braking and stopping performance.
    * Increase the safety level of your vehicle.
    * Reduce NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness).
    * Increase stiffness of chassis and reduce body crack.

I will be getting a spare set for you guys to test. Whoever is interested, please let me know. If no one is interested, I will offer it to the guys in SC.

[Anonymous]

I'll take the spare one to try, as long as it doesn't go too much above £90.

[Anonymous]

£90 is the max for the struts. I have spoken to the chap, and the price will be lowered if there's enough interest. Shipping will be £15 from Singapore. I'm not gonna post in from Malaysia, cos the postal service SUXK big time.

Ekona, I will refund you the difference if others chip in later after the review. Both of us will be the test mule.

This is the break down of the price :- £80 for the struts, £5 for ROC club donation, £5 for the packaging box. I will not be earning anything for myself.......................... this time.

So it's £105 max inclusive of shipping. It maybe lower. I will post again on Tuesday night (or UK's Tuesday morning).

Still a go for the spare, Ekona?

[Anonymous]

Yup, that's fine for me. Let me know when and how you want the cash.   s:D s:D

[Anonymous]

Yup, that's fine for me. Let me know when and how you want the cash.   s:D s:D

Steady man! Will pm you the installed photos and your struts on Tuesday night (I mean UK morning... my time is GMT+8 ). Check your PM. Will get the $$ from you sometime over next weekend when I go to Singapore.

I will be around throughout the installation, so I will be able to take lots of photos, and so a written installation guide will probably be included.

Remember to test the struts when you get it and write a review please.

Cheers.

[Anonymous]

Remember to test the struts when you get it and write a review please.

Of course.   s8) s8)

[Anonymous]

Hi guys. I have the fender struts fitted today. But customisation and installation took the whoooole day. Actually, it's the customisation that took the whole day. I took the car straight off the oven for a test drive (without my fenders). To contact a fair test, I had the shop remove my TTE sway bars, TRD member braces and Corky's before they started work. Then, I rode my SMT to 10 rounds of cornering around the neighorhood just to remember the feeling of the handling. After installation, I made another 10 rounds of hard n 60mhp cornering around the workshop's neighborhood.

Although I haven't fully tested the handling of the car thouroughly enough, the 20 rounds of merry-go-round are enough for me to make a quick comment.

Before-and-After Comment:[/u]

Note: All before-and-after test runs were done without the sway bars, member braces and corky's (though front+reat struts are in place).

Before

Honestly speaking, cornering with no sways at 60mhp without brakes send chills into my spine. TBH, I'm not much of a "speedy" guy, and trust me, if it's not for testing the struts, I won't be doing this. Luckily, there aint no cars around the industrial area, and road is wide, and that's a bonus. I can't really put my feelings into words except to say it felt like the whole car was wobbling during the cornerings, and I could swear the passenger's side was off the ground, or at least it was that kinda feeling I was getting. Once the corners straightened up, I could always feel the car 'sqeeeaking' at the driver's side. I almost lost control on the 3rd round cos I made the corner too late.

After

I took the car straight out of the oven after installation for the test runs. I was too afraid I might lose the feeling of the 'before' test runs, so I was a little bit anxious and at the same time worried about the result not being what I expected.

Same run down of 60mph of hard cornering around the neighborhood for 10 rounds. At this point, I'm almost peed in my pants. I just hate the feeling of lossing control over the corners. To me, it's worse than death itself. Nothing different happened. BUT GUESS WHAT? Everytime the corners straighten out, there was no longer the 'squeaky' noise at the driver side anymore. Not even once!! I have to admit, the last 5 rounds were like nightmares to me, and it looked almost silly because all the workers from the workshop and some kids on the street were giving me THE look. It looked as if I'm street racing in the middle of the afternoon in a small neighborhood.

I wasn't really sure what caused the squeaky noise. But I know what stopped it.  s:D s:D  Anyway, I was checking on the net just now, and it seemed the fender struts are originated from Japan. Seem like a lot of their race cars come equipped with fender struts like this. These struts are supposedly effective in curbing torsional/lateral flexing of the front chassis, as well as a safety mod against head-on collisions -- the struts would absorb some of the impact of the collision. Thus with the forces being absorb from the collapsing of the frunk and fender struts, minimal damage are subjected to the driver and passengers.

Check this site out. http://www.aj-racing.com/ALEX-products.php?type=Chassis

Scroll all the way down to the bottom "Inner fender brace". Now I know what caused the 'squeaky' noise!!

Before I went back to the hotel, had the bars and braces reinstalled. The car now feels more stable at high speed with the fender struts, though I swear I will never ever test hard cornering ever never ever again!!  s:evil: :evil: s:evil:    s:evil: :evil: s:evil:

P/S: I can't upload the photos just yet. Will do so when I get back home tomorrow.

PP/S: Ekona, lucky you. Your struts are currently in the factory waiting to be powdercoated. Mine was only sprayed-on. Anyway, the guy would parcel it to me next Monday, and I will have it shipped out to you before next weekend. Installation is simple enough, and I'm sure you will be happy with the product.

[Anonymous]

Ekona, lucky you. Your struts are currently in the factory waiting to be powdercoated.

  s8) s8)  

That's a good review there Simon, I can't wait to get my hands on mine now and try them out. I know you didn't do much of a test, but was there much difference to the car when you had all the bars and braces back on along with the fender struts?

[Anonymous]

Hi guys, why don't I show you some photos before I give a brief review on the fender struts?


Fender struts during customization. Take a look at the 3-point attachments. 2 are attached on the door hinges, the remaining one is either welded (recommended) or bolted on. Do you know our spyders come with existing fender struts? It's actually some sort of a tie (see red circle).


A closer look at the 3-point attachments.




The customising process.



Customisation completed.


Finished products.



Welding process.




Welded point.


After welding.


Some factory scenes



The fender bars...





After 10 rounds of after-mod runs.


[/b]

I finally managed to test the car with all the braces on today. Straight-line driving doesn't seem to gain any improvement until you reach a speed of about 100 kmph (63mph). I notice an increased stability of my spyder crusing at high speed on the freeway. Previously, I would experience bumpy rides when I come across slightly uneven roads (or speed strips) on the freeway at such high speed (well, 75mph [120kmph] is fast to me). Car would wobble intensely, and I would need to adjust the steering to maintain a straight line. Today, I realise the ride over uneven freeway roads isn't as bumpy as it used to. Adjustment of the steering is minimal, and handling of the car is more responsive. I suspect the reinforced fender chassis has allowed the suspension to do its work of smoothing out the bumps. Maybe that's why there's minimal steering adjustment, and the ride felt less bumpy. I dunno...

Since some of Malaysia's freeway are rather twisty, I had many chances of testing the handling of the car during soft cornering (No more hard cornering for me... s:x :x s:x ). As most of us know, there's intense lateral flexing of the unibody during cornerings. Upon exiting corners, the unibody has to unflex itself. During this flexing-unflexing process, the chassis becomes unstable, and thus energy is wasted to regain the car's intended path. This causes a reduce in speed, and jeopardise handling.

However, that's not so in my case. Handling of the car is improved during the twists. The car becomes more responsive to your steering. The fender struts have reinforced the fender chassis, thus minimising the flexing of the frontal section of the unibody during cornering. Personally I think the improvement will tend to be more significant the greater speed you ride your car. If I can see a significant improvement in handling at 120kmh (75mph), I think the improvement will be greater for those who autocross/track.

It is very difficult to explain my experience in words to you guys... The handling is subtlely improved. I say subtlely because during normal city driving at moderate speed, you probably won't experience the kinda improvement I experienced on the freeway. Plus, since I was in the 'improvement lookout' mode, I was more intuned to any changes in the car's handling. After 4 hours of driving, I can only conclude that the improvement is not something you will see in your normal 50mph city driving. However, it is at higher speed and cornering where you will see better response and handling of the car.

Much of the chassis mod that we have done to our cars are not meant to seen in normal day-to-day city driving. Whoever is concerned about the rigidity of his spyder during city driving anyway? Probably not many. However, such chassis-strengthening mods' precationary and handling benefits will be seen in the events of no-so-tame-speed. I don't know when we will not drive tamely. But I do know that in the event that we do drive that way, our spyders will response better, and save our lives (and our spyders' as well) in many cases.

Therefore, like most chassis mods, the fender struts is a mod that you won't wanna miss if you autocross/track, enjoy twisting rides or simply looking for ways to strengthen your 2's chassis. With all the existing bars and braces that you already have, I'm sure that a pair of these fender struts is a worthy compliment. As far as I'm concern, this will probably be the only vertical-axis braces most people will have (unless someone has the C-One side braces).

Please don't trust what I say. Find out more about these fender braces for yourself, and see for yourself if this mod is worth any of your time.

BTW, my fender struts are not powdercoated. That's because it needed to be send to a factory to do the powdercoating, and mine needed to be installed onto my car on that day. However, Ekona's one will be.   s:D s:D

[roger]

Simon,

Good work and good pictures.

Just one question, will the "welded" end always have to be welded or can it be bolted? If so would the suppliers be able to supply everything needed (maybe a backplate, bolts etc).

Also never having attempted a body panel job, can somebody confirm taking the wing off is just bolts and clips.

Thanks.

Roger

[kanujunkie]

yep after having some body work done i can confirm that theres no welding, just bolts n stuff

[Anonymous]

Simon,

Good work and good pictures.

Just one question, will the "welded" end always have to be welded or can it be bolted? If so would the suppliers be able to supply everything needed (maybe a backplate, bolts etc).

Also never having attempted a body panel job, can somebody confirm taking the wing off is just bolts and clips.

Thanks.

Roger

Roger, you can always bolt the 3rd point. The necessary bolts and nuts will be provided. It's not necessary to weld it in, though welding will always provide a more solid attachment. Like most bolt-on, the screw and nuts may become loose after sometime, just like the screws and nuts on your mufflers. That's why you need to check on them periodically on your servicing. This would mean stripping the fender panel again. I would strongly advise you to weld it in though. Becuase of the unique design of the 3rd point, you only need to weld one edge of the bracket. Thus, if you are thinking of removing it in the future, it will be easier. Granted, it's always easier to remove it by bolting instead of welding. But welding provides a stronger support. That's the trade off. Moreover, you need to cut a hole  from the chassis in order to get the nuts in the underpanel of the chassis. Welding is much easier.



Yes, taking the panels off is just a matter of bolts and clips.

[Anonymous]

Some comments on the SC.

http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=24555

[Anonymous]

Ekona's fender struts is ready. I'm just waiting for him to pay me so I can get it shipped sometime next week!!  s:D s:D  




BTW Dan, please make sure you paypal me at  e mailto:simontan75@yahoo.com">simontan75@yahoo.com e

[kanujunkie]

ooooohhhhh, they look nice, got any more???

[Anonymous]

ooooohhhhh, they look nice, got any more???

Sigh... I must admit Ekona's is definately better than mine... Firstly, the brackets are CNC cutted, secondly 2mm tubular mild steel is used for the struts instead of 1.2mm that's used on mine. Thirdly,  the struts are powdercoated. What's more is the bolts and nuts... It isn't some normal bolts and nuts you find lying around. They are high quality bolts and nuts.

Ekona paid 105 pounds for this. However, if I have interest for 10 sets, I'm confident I can get it down to 90-95 pounds each. I will start gauging interest once Ekona review these struts. So for now, this is one and only one available now.

I have already made a mold for this. So in theory, I can fab the struts anytime I want.

[Tem]

If only the 3rd attachment point could use a stock bolt as well  s:? :? s:?  Personally that's a major turnoff for me. If I weld that, I can never get any protection between the stock panel and the support, where the weld burns the paint away. If I bolt it, I'm afraid it'll move and eat the paint away. Rust would be certain in our weather  s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

[Anonymous]

If only the 3rd attachment point could use a stock bolt as well  s:? :? s:?  Personally that's a major turnoff for me. If I weld that, I can never get any protection between the stock panel and the support, where the weld burns the paint away. If I bolt it, I'm afraid it'll move and eat the paint away. Rust would be certain in our weather  s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

Hahaha.... Tem, you worried too much. Plus, you just like the best of both world, don't you?   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  


Allow me to explain... Firstly, there isn't a stock bolt at the particular fender area where the 3rd point is attached. If there is, I would have used it. Let me give you a suggestion? Kindly take a look at the photo below. It shows the welded point. Take note that because of the unique geometrical design of the struts, only one edge (the right side of the bracket in the photo) of the bracket needed to be welded to provide a true strong support. Once welded, if you are worried about having no protection between the stock panel and the support (I take it that you mean weather protection), you can always do what I did, you can spray a couple of layer of white paint on the welded edge like how it's done in the photo.



Worrying about the bolts scrapping the paint away is just being anal this time Tem!   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  There are many places in our 2 that are painted and bolted at the same time (the engine lid lever, door hinges, the front tower mount, rear tower mount). I didn't see you worry about painting getting scrapped off?   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

All paid up now, looking forward to receiving the goodies!   s:D s:D  

Shame I haven't got the time to get them installed before the track day at Elvington, that would've been an ideal place to try them out. Ah well, 'tis a good excuse to book another day up somewhere!

[Tem]

Firstly, there isn't a stock bolt at the particular fender area where the 3rd point is attached. If there is, I would have used it.

Yeah, I know  s8) s8)

Once welded, if you are worried about having no protection between the stock panel and the support, you can always do what I did, you can spray a couple of layer of white paint on the welded edge like how it's done in the photo.

I meant "under" the support plate where you can't really get after the welding. Not enough room to spray anything in between, but enough room to get moisture in there  s:? :? s:?

Worrying about the bolts scrapping the paint away is just being anal this time Tem!   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

 s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Not the bolt, that's not an issue. I meant that since I can't really make a thread there, but just a hole, the plate will surely move around a bit when it gets some force during cornening. Might not be enough to actually see it move, but surely enough to eat the paint away over time  s:? :? s:?


Don't get me wrong, I'm sure this is a great product, just not for me  s8) s8)  It's probably just our weather, but rust is a major issue over here. It's not even that uncommon that a two year old car might have rusted through in some places...doesn't take much when it's damp 10 months per year  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[aaronjb]

I meant "under" the support plate where you can't really get after the welding. Not enough room to spray anything in between, but enough room to get moisture in there  s:? :? s:?

Could you weld all four sides of that plate, and then fill the two holes in the plate with weld - thus creating a sealed (and dry, no doubt, given the heat of welding) area that shouldn't rust?

Or would the welding burn the paint off the 'back' (inside, really) of that wing skin? I've never welded on a painted area, so I wouldn't know  s:) s:)  (OK, I've never welded at all  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  )

[Anonymous]

No worries Tem, we are here to discuss issues. This fender struts is as new to me as it is to you. A little Q&A is good!  s:D s:D  

I now understand your worries about moisture issue in-between the bracket and body panel. Personally, I don't think that will post as an issue. First, only the outer part of the welded edge will have the paint eaten, with a little spray of paint, that can be solved. I'm not too concerned about the inner portion, I'm quite sure not much paint will be eaten away, and if there is, it will be minimal and will occur near the welded edge. Thus, the effect of corrosion on this tiny section of the body panel is very negligible.

However, for those perfectionists, this is what's recommended from the chassis guys I worked with :- spray 3 layers of paint on the area where the 3rd point is attached, at at least 20 minutes interval. Let the paint drys out totally before you position the struts for welding. The welding will eat away the 1st layer of paint (the area between the bracket and the stock panel), and maybe the 2nd to the extreme, but will still be protected by the 3rd layer. You could technically do 4-5 layers, but honestly, I can safely say your worries for corrosion in this context is redundant. Moreover, there is air circulation at the fender area because it is not enclosed, thus evaporation can take place. If moisture can get in between the bracket and panel, so can air!  s:) s:)  Corrosion works best only in an enclose area with trapped moisture, for example, in thermal wraps over headers. But I understand why you are worried, and I thank you for your view.

The struts will comes with 4 bolts and 4 nuts. If you should decide to bolt the 3rd point, you need to find a way to go under the panel to insert the nuts. If not, the bracket will move around during cornering like you said. We have only explore the top section of the chassis, and we concluded that if one should choose to bolt the 3rd point, you will need to cut a hole at the top.
 

BUT, WE DID NOT explore the possibility of inserting the nuts from the bottom of the fenders. This is something that I will ask Ekona to do. I will work closely with Dan on the fine points of installation, and I'm sure with his help, all related issues of bolting will be covered and solved.

These struts are fabbed with years of experience by these guys, and the technology is imparted from Japan. I'm sure these Jap guys have R&D these thingy enough to confidently assure thousands that welding is safe, and in fact, recommended. None has problems so far, even from tropical and wet countries like Malaysia and Singapore. s:) s:)

I can't expect everyone to agree to what I say. But I would say that if you can take your dip tray off and risk your header, air filter, bolts and nuts getting wet and rusty, then you can certainly risk it with the fender struts. The said area is only 2cm X 2cm. With precautionary measure outlined, the possibility of rust will be kept at a minimum.

  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  Seriously, this is just fender struts. The installation is soooo simple. I don't understand why I made it sounded so complicated with all my explanation.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  But honestly, it's a 20-min job (assuming you have the fenders removed already).

If any of you have other worries, please let me know. I know these fender struts enough to answer most questions. Ekona can take over once his is installed!!!   s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:    s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:    s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[Anonymous]

Could you weld all four sides of that plate, and then fill the two holes in the plate with weld - thus creating a sealed (and dry, no doubt, given the heat of welding) area that shouldn't rust?

Yes, technically you can. But the pro don't do that. The whole point of welding is to firmly secure the bracket to the stock panel, and at the same time, giving the fender struts some leeway of movement during motion. It's like having the gaps on the highway, giving rooms to tar expansion during hot days. For those who have Corky's breastplate, you may remember that he doesn't completely weld all the edges, but welds only selectively. The areas that are not welded, give the breastplate certain leeway while the car is in motion. This prevent structural stress from building up in the plate pre-maturely, BUT at no expense of not fiming up the undercarriage of course.


(image borrowed from Corky in SC commercial section)

If you weld any chassis mod COMPLETELY on the chassis, two things can happen. 1) the mod will break/rip due to overly stressed. 2) You have part of the chassis ripped and stucked to the mod over time. That is why most chassis mods are bolted on, and if welding is necessary, it's done with care and much consideration. The fender struts work the same way. The area for welding in this case is recommended to be that particular edge . However, since the 2 other points are bolted to the door hinges, there is some leeway over there as well, since bolts don't completely tie down the brackets and will always have some rooms for movements anyway. So in short, yes, you can weld in the 4 corners of the 3rd point in this case. I had checked this fact with the chassis guys during my day of installation.

Sorry I know I'm a nag when it comes to explaining, and I always leave the answers to the last...   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

Or would the welding burn the paint off the 'back' (inside, really) of that wing skin? I've never welded on a painted area, so I wouldn't know  s:) s:)  (OK, I've never welded at all  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  )

Yes it will burn, but only very little as compared to the outside. But as I outlined in my previous post, you can always paint a few layers on that area prior to welding. But honestly speaking, I won't worry about it. But given a second chance, I will paint a couple of layers of paint anyway just to be safe.   s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:

[kanujunkie]

just as a point, why cant you use a jointing compound, they're designed to prevent rust from forming in metal to metal joints!! i can get my hands on tubes of a stuff called "YAKSH*T" or JC5A if anyone wants some  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

just as a point, why cant you use a jointing compound, they're designed to prevent rust from forming in metal to metal joints!! i can get my hands on tubes of a stuff called "YAKSH*T" or JC5A if anyone wants some  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Ahhh........ I didn't hear of this sh*t before... Stu, you mean this right?

http://www.lasaero.com/las/30?part=DTD369B

So how can I use it in conjunction with welding? What's the procedure? At  £4.99, it's quite cheap. I bet I can get them cheaper in Malaysia. If so, I will probably throw this in as a package.

Anymore suggestion would be appreciated.