no Pull

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 08:35

got in car this morniong after some severe scraping. when i was pulling out of my space the car was sluggish, if took foot of accelerator it came to instant stop, thought i had a flat but no. got on main road and not acceleration, the car woultn pull away at all, top i could hit was forty, got out to check and from back left of car was terrible smell, burning smell. managed to get it to Mr T and waiting to hear back although one of their machanics that was there when i dropped car of rekoned clutch. what you guys think?

SteveJ · November 18, 2005, 08:40

If the car stopped as soon as you lifted off the throttle, the problem is definately a seized brake - probably the hand brake mechanism frozen (I had that happen several times on all 3 of my '2s)

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 08:43

hhhmmm sounds like it would be better being thay than the clutch. so the burning smell would be rubber or something? does this cause damage and any idea of costs?

kanujunkie · November 18, 2005, 09:00

as Steve has said its more than likely a brakeing problem, ask yourself how a clutch would stop a car from moveing and cause a brakeing action when you take your foot off the accelerator. If when you get the car back it still moves, then you know your clutch is fine, after all the extra strain on the system from this, it would have killed it if it was on its way out.

SteveJ · November 18, 2005, 09:02

The smell would be overheated brake pads (smells very similar to a burnt clutch). At worst you will need new pads and rear discs (and this is only if you drove for more than a few miles)

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 09:06

I had something very similar happen on both my Mk1's. The brake mechanism on both the Mk1 and Mk3 is very similar (although uprated for the Mk3) and I wouldn't be suprised if it is a caliper seizure. Pain in the ass, but not too bad to sort out. As long as it doesn't KEEP doing it, MrT should be Ok with it..........

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 09:06

apart from driving cars i dont know much bud so thats why i wouldnt have known if could be clutch or not. i see what you mean though. unfortunatly i did drive more than a few miles as was out in the middle of no where where i live. any idea of costs of pads and disks?

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 09:08

Quote from: "SteveJ"The smell would be overheated brake pads (smells very similar to a burnt clutch). At worst you will need new pads and rear discs (and this is only if you drove for more than a few miles)

........possibly a caliper too if it is seized (if not frozen) and cannot be freed properly. s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 09:21

ok now this is sounding expensive s:o

s:o ( any quotes?

Liz · November 18, 2005, 10:17

Quote from: "reddi"ok now this is sounding expensive s:o s:o ( any quotes?

I don't think that anyone on here is going to be able to quote you a price, only Mr T are going to be able to tell you that after they have diagnosed whats wrong.

Hope its not too expensive for you, however, you talked on a few other threads about buying an extended warranty, if you done that then you don't have to worry in any case.

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 12:12

i had this problem for a number of years on a saab turbo, every time there was a hard frost the hand brake cable froze, i just drove steady until the heat melted the ice, about 2miles, use one set of rear pads in three years =35,000 miles and the discs were okay

roger · November 18, 2005, 12:45

Quote from: "Liz"
Quote from: "reddi"ok now this is sounding expensive s:o s:o ( any quotes?

you talked on a few other threads about buying an extended warranty, if you done that then you don't have to worry in any case.

s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 15:59

well Mr t is saying its nothing to do with the brakes or hand brake and its connected with the other problem that they found with the clutch. i even asked did they check handbrake and they said that was fine, but after what you guys have said im very worried about them not telling me the truth here or not checked everything

and if it was my handbrake and they havnt noticed will my car be dangerous to drive now?

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 16:07

Quote from: "Liz"you talked on a few other threads about buying an extended warranty, if you done that then you don't have to worry in any case.

does having your car gutted effect the extended warrant?? i i'm thinking about buying a warranty but only after i have had the car gutted??

any thoughts?

Liz · November 18, 2005, 16:12

I told warranty direct that the car was chipped and modded and after some argument they accepted it, however, there is nothing on the documentation to state that. But, I have the gold membership which means that I can just give the car to Mr T if anything goes wrong and they fix it, if they said "you have no precats", I would just say, well they were there earlier! s:)

s:)

roger · November 18, 2005, 16:19

Quote from: "Liz"if they said "you have no precats", I would just say, well they were there earlier! s:) s:)

I think I would say " What are pre-cats?" s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anonymous · November 18, 2005, 16:21

warranty aside what you guys think about my issue, as honestly dont know if posted away my warranty application or not?

roger · November 18, 2005, 16:46

Quote from: "reddi"warranty aside what you guys think about my issue, as honestly dont know if posted away my warranty application or not?

reddi

Alright, somebody might have had this before, in which case in due course you may get a definitive reply.

If there isn't (at least from those on line since you started the thread) there doesn't appear to be enough hard fact for the techies to give a considered view other than what you have already had.

So, get yourself sorted about the warranty which will very much dictate what you do.

If you have, you hand the car in and say "get it done".

If you haven't you have to find out from them what they are proposing to do to cure it and ask for an estimate, and grit your teeth while they add up the costs.

Then comes the reckoning, and NOBODY here can help you with that.

Anonymous · November 21, 2005, 00:39

Reddi, You'll know if there is a problem with the clutch because. When you drive off or get biting point. Then drive off. He car will rev however the car won't drive off as fast as it normally does. If however while U R drivin and then you put the petal to the metal. You'll also hear the engine rev but no perforance and a strong smell of like engine oil burning though it ain't engine. Its like brake fuild. If however your the person that like doin wheel spins off the lights I won't be surprised you have a f**ked Clutch and U only have yourself 2 blame.

I hope this helps you to know if your clutch needs replacing. Regarding cost on replacement. Mine cost £300 but mine's a performance clutch also it a good days work for the mechanic cos they ain't the easiest of cars to replace a clutch. It normally needs two guy's/ girls to help out.

Anonymous · November 21, 2005, 15:51

well car into to get a final check and it turns out they gona replace clutch and also handbrake as that was gone which is why felt like brakes werent releasing.

good news is though that if warranty wont cover it then the sales depot has said they will cover the cost s:o

s:o )

Anonymous · November 21, 2005, 17:39

Glad to hear it has worked out ok for you - just a pity you seem to have had so many issues with your car.

Richie.

Anonymous · November 22, 2005, 07:55

thanks bud

yeah i no, looks like ive been unlucky this time as not had any issues with any of my previous cars. oh well heres hoping after this my little 2 doesnt need to see mr t till its service time