Engine Management warning light

Started by Anonymous, December 2, 2005, 10:55

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Anonymous

HI,

I have an 02 reg MR2 roadster (comes from Germany) and recently the engine management warning light came on, and as I had the car in for a timing chain tensioner oil seal i got them to check, they could not find an issue so they reset and the light went off...but next day it came back on....

Ive seen on this site about cleaning the sensors , as toyota have basically said as the light has come back on and there aint anything that checked up on computer, best to replace the 02 sensors, i have seen some people on here saying about replacing / cleaning...is that something i should try before shelling out over 200 quid?

thoughts

Regards

Ray

kanujunkie

#1
the bit people are talking about cleaning Ray is the MAF sensor, have a look at the articles section at  w www.spydermagazine.com w
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

SteveJ

#2
If the light is on, then there is an error code. Get the dealer to tell you what the code is, and we can make an informed recommendation as to your next step  s:) :) s:)

Anonymous

#3
HI Steve,

When they put it onto the computer they said that the indicator did not tell them anything, and everything checked out ok, just put it down to a sensitive sensor...so all they could do was reset it and when they started the car back up it stayed off (for about 20 miles)...

Ray

roger

#4
Quote from: "raycarmody"HI Steve,

When they put it onto the computer they said that the indicator did not tell them anything, and everything checked out ok, just put it down to a sensitive sensor...so all they could do was reset it and when they started the car back up it stayed off (for about 20 miles)...

Ray

What do they mean a "sensitive sensor". Are they saying CEL is coming on outside its normal range, or are they saying something about the O2 sensor?

TBH it is only their guess. If they are saying they have no reading because the system is not showing up a fault how do they know whats wrong.  I would not recommend an O2 change without further information, they are not cheap!

If the CEL sensing equipment is wrong, then its probably a faulty ECU. A reset of that might help, failing that it would be a new ECU, again not cheap.

When the light is on again, I would return to MrT and ask them again to check for a code. If they can't get one, ask them to check their equipment!!
Roger

EX: \'04 Sable + PE Turbo and many other things
NOW: MR2 on steroids - \'12 Merc SLK200 AMG125

Use Spydersearch if you are stuck for information. Please.
Check my fuel consumption

Jap GT300

#5
Quote from: "kanujunkie"the bit people are talking about cleaning Ray is the MAF sensor, have a look at the articles section at  w www.spydermagazine.com w

It could also quite easily be the O2 sensor.  If you remove it they can be cleaned using a spray can of brake cleaner.

Dirty O2's and MAF's can give similar behaviour, idle hunting, flat spots, bogging, etc...

edward.carter

#6
i might try cleaning my o2 sensors got some brake cleaner, got electrical contact cleaner too, would that be better?

Jap GT300

#7
brake cleaner leaves no residue

Anonymous

#8
Hi,

Thanks for the info, checked the MAF (it was dirty so cleaned it)  and reset the ECU and then drove for about 20 miles it came back on...

What would you suggest is my next step?

Regards

Ray

spit

#9
Ray, your best bet now would be to go back to Steve's advice:
Quote from: "SteveJ"If the light is on, then there is an error code. Get the dealer to tell you what the code is, and we can make an informed recommendation as to your next step  s:) :) s:)
Many things can be ruled out by deduction (eg anything causing a CEL at subsequent start-up rather than part-way through a journey), but beyond that its largely guesswork/trial & error/crafty work with a multimeter.

If you're not registering a genuine problem, it sounds like a sensor is bottling out or signalling outside of tolerances. If the car is idling, pootling and pulling well it might just be a temporary fault (See? I'm guessing now   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  ).

The MAF would have been my first choice, but you've already sorted that   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

A good MrT (or someone with a decent reader) should be able to read your code(s) off easily enough and quickly put you on the right track.
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

Anonymous

#10
Hi Guys,

Many thanks for replies been back to MrT and they have said thats what it is and needs replacing at a cost of 220 quid...

is there any point in shopping around or is that a standard price , or is there a better alternative to this?

Regards

Ray
Newcastle

kanujunkie

#11
sometimes my memory aint so crap, a search for maf and £95 produces

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... =maf+%A395 m

check the last post on this thread and pm the guy  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

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