CV Joints - How expensive???

Started by Anonymous, January 16, 2006, 09:54

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Anonymous

One of my front CV joints is on its way out and after ringing around all of the motor factors that I know, I can't get hold of a replacement. Apparently you can only get the part from Toyota.... for £280 plus VAT!!!

That seems a bit steep for a CV joint. Any idea if I can get hold of one elsewhere for less or am I just being tight fisted?

  s:? :? s:?

SteveJ

#1
CV joints are on drive shafts, and unless you have the worlds first FWD or 4WD '2 then you won't have a FRONT CV joint to replace  s:? :? s:?

Anonymous

#2
driveshafts are quite expensive if you need the whole unit, i had just the rubber gaiters changed by Mr T for £85 if that helps

Anonymous

#3
Then I'll have to have serious words with the Toyota parts department if they're trying to sell me a part that doesn't exist!

(Certainly sounds like a CV joint though.)

aaronjb

#4
Quote from: "michaeljwainwright"(Certainly sounds like a CV joint though.)

When you say 'sounds like', you mean it's making a groaning noise, I presume?

In which case, I'd think front wheel bearing, rather than CV joint..
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

Anonymous

#5
With full lock on, there is a loud "knocking" noise from the nearside front. I can also feel the knocking through the steering wheel. What do you think?

Cheers for the help by the way!!

aaronjb

#6
Ah.. much discussion as to what causes this, but the concensus is that there are two noises:

A sort of groan/grind that occurs as you are turning the wheel lock to lock (whether you are moving forward/backward or not) - which is the shock absorber top mounts needing greasing/cleaning.

A knocking/banging that occurs as you drive forward/back with full lock already applied.  This is down to the tyres scribing a different arc (between left hand & right hand sides), with the outer tyre scribing a wider arc.  The result of this (on cold tyres) is that the entire tyre surface tends to 'flex' as it is dragged sideways and then 'releases' back to a neutral position.  As it releases and readjusts itself you get a bang.

The second noise never seems to happen after you've driven around a bit, only ever first thing on a morning, the hypothesis being that after you've warmed the tyres up the individual tread blocks move around, rather than stressing the entire tyre sideways on it's sidewall.

I'd say you're experiencing the latter of those two - in which case, it's nothing to worry about, and there is no cure (though some makes of tyre seem less prone to doing it).
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

Anonymous

#7
From your description, it sounds like the tyres.

Thinking about it, I've only noticed the problem when the tyres are cold.

Thanks very much for clearing that up (on behalf of me and my wallet!)

Anonymous

#8
WoW!!! nice one Arron!

what a result, gone from £280 --> £0 in about 4hrs 45mins, that must be worth a donation to the club!?!?!?    s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anonymous

#9
i had this problem with my old mr2 when i took it a test drive.

I never spoke to an actual engineer to find out what the problem was, however the salesman informed me that it was a "fractured brake disc" and they then changed all 4 discs n pads.

richie

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