@Jelbert the 3rd hello and welcome

Here's another question I am pondering on!

I'm currently have a number of parts in my Fensport Performance basket but am pondering on this question?

Is it better to go for standard replacement front wishbones and add Hardrace Roll Centre Adjusters or go for front wishbones with uprated bushes including uprated caster alignment I just cant seem to make up my mind!

What would be your choice for a B road blaster (road going) car?

Using pilot sport 3's on a staggered set up and the grip levels are excellent,wet or dry.

Quote from: moca2cv on October 15, 2026, 23:13I have the hardrace toe arms, waste of time as you can't get a spanner on the half nut at the subframe. I use the stock cam bolts to adjust toe.

TTT solved it by making that joint longer: https://technotoytuning.com/rear-toe-links-zzw30-mr2-spyder/

Not seen the Gravity ones in the flesh but they look similar to the Hardrace...

It's a shame new stock toe arms are Hardrace price, as those with a polybush would be perfect for a road/track car.

Thanks for the info   

I was debating buying new OEM toe arms and only considered hardrace because of being adjustable for the same money

I have the hardrace toe arms, waste of time as you can't get a spanner on the half nut at the subframe. I use the stock cam bolts to adjust toe.

TTT solved it by making that joint longer: https://technotoytuning.com/rear-toe-links-zzw30-mr2-spyder/

Not seen the Gravity ones in the flesh but they look similar to the Hardrace...

It's a shame new stock toe arms are Hardrace price, as those with a polybush would be perfect for a road/track car.

It's gone up from £180 to £197

There is an option for both silver & black buttons now though.

Didn't get round to sticking my head in the frunk today, but did clean my steering wheel.

I wear gloves when I drive on track, but not on the road, or when I'm working on the car, so I give it a brush with some suede cleaner fairly regularly. But as I had some time, I thought I'd get busy with some Fairy to try to get the oils out.

First thing, remove the wheel from the boss. I can do this from the comfort of my utility room 😁



Warm water and Fairy is what I'm using to scrub.



Get a microfibre and really give that wheel a scrub. Rinse the cloth, wring it out, scrub, repeat.



It didn't look bad to start with but look at that water 🤢



Dry with afresh microfibre, brush with a stiff brush, let it dry.



Job done!

ETA - it's not perfect. It probably needs a lot more work to get the matting out completely. But also... it's 12 years old, on a track car, it gets abuse. This will do

Since using the car for gymkhana, I've been thinking of ways to make the car work for me on the road, on track, and for skids. The car has to be good at all three, and although it's a master of none, the driver is the weak link so I'm ok with it.

However, one thing you have to do for gymkhana is disable the ABS so you can use the hydraulic handbrake. It's very simple to pop a fuse out - you don't need to disconnect the battery or anything, popping the fuse back in enables ABS. So... it should be switchable right? The only internet reference to doing this was a single comment by Danny DC2 that he'd fitted a switch. No elaboration unfortunately. This should be fairly simple on its own.

I also got to thinking about the power steering - our steering assistance varies by speed, with max at zero mph, tailing off as speed increases. This makes sense on the road and on track, but for gymkhana wheel speed is often considerably higher than actual speed, causing inconsistent steering. If I could make the PS ECU think the wheel speed was zero, I'd have full assistance all the time. And if I could put that on a switch... you see where this is going.

So I hatched a plan to install a 3 position switch that could select different modes: road mode, ABS off, and gymkhana mode. I gathered parts, and opted for relays so the circuits could fail closed. It was a good time to also tidy up some wiring - I'd been powering my gauges off the radio harness, so could take the IGN+ and ground from there easily enough. I had got rid of oil pressure and temp, so just AFR left. I wanted to relocate that to a heater vent to avoid having a gauge pod in my line of sight.

So out with the sub loom and on to the wiring...



Honestly I had no idea what I was doing; or indeed how to do it. I made a lot of mistakes and had to redo things a few times but got there in the end.



The switch mounting was very easy - hole in a blank.



Once it was all wired up, off to pop it all in the car. This is the long bit... routing was hard and lots of do overs later I finally got roughly where I was happy being.



If you're ever thinking of vent mounting a gauge, don't bother. It's a pain.



Switch looks very at home. I just need to split the right wires to switch. Job for tomorrow...

Hi.
If anyone needs any help with agreed value insurance then please feel free to drop me a line.
Regards,
Dan. 

I'm very interesting by this product !
What's interface du you use to upload your map into your ECU ?