The gap between Standard and upgrade Suspension

Started by jvanzyl, December 14, 2015, 10:33

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jvanzyl

Morning All!
So - I have been shopping (lots) and got myself a markiii pipe, fl headlights £35 each (mwhahahahahahaha!), some smoked side lights (free with the spoiler  :-) :-) :-) ) - please note the only thing fitted so far is the side lights...  and I'm now turning my attention to the suspension.

The objective is to make the car feel more planted at motorway speeds (it's wrong that the wife's fabia estate feels better and safer).

Everyone seems super keen on the BC Coilovers and the MeisterR ones... is there anything a bit cheaper? I'm not intending to track this car, (maybe once in a blue moon) but would like to know what the middle ground is between a standard shock replacement and the uber expensive BC's coilovers?

All I've got to go on is browsing of the different websites and their respective prices - I don't suppose anyone has any thoughts on a reasonable set?

Cheers,

John

vinp182

Lowering springs with your standard shocks

Usually around £120 (ish) a set
2001 Nissan Silvia S15 SpecR
2000 MR-S...... Between engines
1993 Rev4 Turbo mk2 300whp
1994 Rev3 Turbo mk2
2004 Renaultsport Clio182

shnazzle

Quote from: "vinp182"Lowering springs with your standard shocks

Usually around £120 (ish) a set

Agreed. Depending on the state of your shocks. Full replacement of shocks with lowering springs will set you back about 400ish, assuming you don't need new topmounts.

The lowering will make it more planted at speed. But obviously, speedbumps require a bit more care.

The BC and MeisterR coilies are adjustable in height and damping, so it provides a lot more flexibility with regards to the exact height and what you do with the car. But in general, a fair bit firmer than springs and stock shocks.
MeisterR has just brought out some new versions of their already great coilovers, which cater even more to "normal" street driving with a performance edge. They are considered budget coilovers, so they don't get much cheaper without losing a lot of quality.

I'm very pleased with my BCs with softer springs, but it sounds like you're better off going for lowering springs and then perhaps new KYB shocks (either now to save labour or later).
...neutiquam erro.

jvanzyl

Thanks guys - I've got the car booked in at lunch time to R-Tec in st.albans for 4-wheel alignment and I'll get them to assess the state of the shocks then.
Regarding the lowering springs - what I don't get is how my wifes diesel estate feels more planted, yet my mr2 needs lowering in order to achieve the same thing? Seems a bit nuts that I need to lower it even further than it is already on standard.

Anyway - did you guys have recommendations on the lowering springs? (Spax/tein etc) Or are they all pretty much the same?

I'll have a look for some KYB shocks and see how much I can get them for just in case..

thanks for the help!

JoeCool

The comparison to the Mile muncher isn't really fair. The MR2 is a 'pointy' sports car. IT's designed to have a low polar inertia, be quick to turn in and respond to direction changes, and be at home on a twisty B Road, not sat dead straight and level on a Motorway. The Diesel estate is designed to sit there eating miles with miminal driver input. Everything from suspension design to tyre choice has been engineered to achieve this, and it's to the detriment of handling when really pushing on in the twisties.

HOwever, I bet the alignment will help massively and I'd do that as a first port of call, followed by shock and spring replacement if I wanted the car relatively standard and to retain ride quality. KYB shocks are great, they're OEM toyota (and subaru) fitment.
2ZZ '02 Roadster

shnazzle

Don't do Spax please or anything of the like. As Joe said it, it's a sensitive little car, it gives as good as you put in. There's little (or a lot less anyway) slack built in for bad tyres, old suspension, bad alignment, etc.
Also bear in mind your MR2 is very light in the front. At speed the front car feel a bit light and cause instability if suspension/rear subframe is kak. Also, you need to make sure you have the little plastic wind deflectors under the front bumper in front of the tyres and along the front.
...neutiquam erro.

jvanzyl

#6
whoa.... wind deflectors along the front??? This is the first I've heard of those!
Does anyone have a pic? I've tried googling but it's just bringing up the rear one...

Duly noted - I shall avoid Spax then!

EDIT - just done more googling and I think I've spotted what you're on about.. will have to look at the car when the garage brings it round.
 m https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl= ... MwhkKDowOg m

it's those little "do-dads" below the front vents right?

shnazzle

...neutiquam erro.

jvanzyl

ahh - awesome, I shall check to see if they are there  shortly..

1979scotte

Is it just me but surely there is no point having a full alignment done if your considering changing the suspension.
It will just need to be done again.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

jvanzyl

#10
You  are correct, but I'm hoping that the alignment will sort out the issue and therefore negate the "new suspension" requirement  :-) :-) :-)

Just checked under the car and I do have the front deflectors - and they did find that the car had an alignment that was more inclined to "crabbing"... showed me nice little diagram with  the FL and RR tyres into the red.. so as far as I can tell it's just a £80 job.. we shall  see what they come back with and then give it a spin.

weeJohn

#11
Suspension is definitely an area where you get what you pay for, but the Meisters are really good value for money.

I have a set in my daily driver (Caldina) and also my Starlet and I cannot fault them 1 bit. The daliys were in about 4 years when I got a leak a leak in 1 after carrying a 3SGE engine, gearbox and engine crane in the car (slightly overloaded!). I was able to get just 1 replacement damper within a week. Anyone who has had coilovers before will tell you their woes of things seizing up, but after a tap to loosen the rings and a yank to break the seal of the damper in the housing, they unscrewed by hand.

Great quality for the cost and the ride is great in both with some adjustment left either way.

jvanzyl

#12
Ok so, £80 later I'm back on the road and the car feels good again!
I have to ask, does anyone else suffer from needing realignment regularly? I'm not hitting potholes out anything, but the other garage did it a month ago, and its strange that it was out again when these guys did it.

shnazzle

#13
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Ok so, £80 later I'm back on the road and the car feels good again!
I have to ask, does anyone else suffer from needing realignment regularly? I'm not hitting potholes out anything, but the other garage did it a month ago, and its strange that it was out again when these guys did it.
Only when changing suspension usually. And after a good while of driving.
Have you checked the full state of the rear crossmember? Or perhaps worn bushes.
...neutiquam erro.

1979scotte

#14
I don't know why but my front camber was miles out when I had it done last month new subframe.
I'd only had it done at demon tweeks in June.
I'm putting it down to human error.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

jvanzyl

#15
So rear cross member is rusty and has been patched - but it still looks solid.

I had new poly bushes put in the front in the summer - I don't know if having old and new between the front and back could cause an issue..

Either way - I know the place yesterday had laser tracking, and I don't think the previous place did - so maybe there's human error in that too... will keep an eye on it, it's just annoying how it creeps up on you.

1979scotte

#16
I would be looking to have that subframe changed at some point.
The welding won't cure it just keep it at bay for a while.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

jvanzyl

#17
ergh... so whats a the total cost of a new subframe fitted these days - I've not come across any advertised on the usual websites...

Any suggestions on a qualified person in the Hertfordshire area that can do that kind of checking you describe?

EDIT - OK just found one for £340 on MR2Ben... erm.. plus fitting and wheel alignment.. this is looking like an expensive thing..

Ardent

#18
 l viewtopic.php?f=75&t=57137 l

maybe have look at thread above.
distance is probably the killer

jvanzyl

#19
Yeah I saw that thread when it came out.
I'm not sure I read the total cost right though, was it seriously £80 to fix that sub frame?

I'm really enjoying the car at the moment, I think the laser alignment is the way forward!

Ardent

#20
The sub was not fixed as in patched welded.
Customer supplied new sub frame.
The £80 is for labour only to replace the sub frame.

jvanzyl

#21
ahhh - so the question remains on where to get a new or very good used one from, but either way £80 to do all that is great value!

So basically you're looking at:
- New subframe - £350 ish?
- labour to fit £80
- 4 wheel alignment £80

Am I missing anything?

1979scotte

#22
I paid less than that for a brand new subframe powder coated and waxoyled.
I believe Toyota want 315.
Would imagine someone in the trade could get a 10% discount on that.
I think 370 would be a fair price fitted.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Ardent

#23
Not sure if a geo graphical thing, but the £80 alignment seems a bit stiff.
I paid £36. Using best company in leic.

cptspaulding

#24
Quote from: "Ardent"Not sure if a geo graphical thing, but the £80 alignment seems a bit stiff.
I paid £36. Using best company in leic.

Normal here is about £40 for front wheel alignment + £20-£25 per each rear that needs adjusting.
Former owner 2003, 2zz conversion.

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