I'm a member... GUT MY PRECATS!

Started by Anonymous, January 20, 2005, 15:00

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Anonymous

I'm sure I can guess what kind of response I'm likely to receive here but as the old line goes "if you don't ask, you don't get".

I am getting more and more concerned about the precats situation... mainly because I can see it's going to cause a problem for me eventually and I'm not mechanically minded enough to gut the dang things - even with all the guidance on the forum. Can you see where this is going yet?   s:) :) s:)  

Is there ANYBODY out there who's already gutted their precats, would be willing to gut mine???? For a fee obviously!   s:D :D s:D   Not sure what the going rate is but if you want to earn some cash from my poor old pocket then now's the time to speak up!

So then.... Anybody?   s:?: :?: s:?:

Anonymous

#1
I'm gutting mine soon, i'd be happy report back from a laypersons perspective on what to do.

markiii

#2
there is going to be a precat gutting meet soon as a few people have mentioned it.

For convenience if you want to atend this at my house in Welwyn please post here and I'll get some dates organised.

ta.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#3
Hmm, yeah, I guess so, not too far from me.

Anonymous

#4
I'll be up for a Gutting Meet, Mark.

Got me own O2 socket, too.   s8) 8) s8)

Anonymous

#5
I'll be there too  s:) :) s:)

Liz

#6
Grant did a very comprehensive post on how its done just here, if you are interested....

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/viewtopic.p ... 07&start=0 m
ex-TTE Turbo, now Freelander Sport, its not a car its a Landrover!

Anonymous

#7
I have that post saved as a fave, and i reckon i could do that.

However, its all the other posts about rounding off bolts that scares me.

Peter Wright

#8
Quote from: "markiii"there is going to be a precat gutting meet soon as a few people have mentioned it.

For convenience if you want to atend this at my house in Welwyn please post here and I'll get some dates organised.

ta.

I will bring the wine if someone else brings the food !

Seriously tho is there a difference between the Roadster & Spyder PreCats

Pete
Pete.  1999 MRs.  Power Enterpise Turbo, Greddy Ultimate, Davids style bars,  Walnut Dash Kit,  2003 side pods, Chrome Mirrors & Windscreen Surround, TRD Spoiler, H&S quad exhaust, Corkeys Breast Plate, TRD Member braces, Fox Racing lightweight 17" racing alloys.

Slacey

#9
Quote from: "Peter Wright"Seriously tho is there a difference between the Roadster & Spyder PreCats
None at all Pete.
Ex 2002 Black / Red Leather Hass Turbo

Anonymous

#10
It's worth keeping in mind that while there's a risk of snapping a stud or rounding off a bolt during the removal of the header, the entire point of the job is to prevent catastrophic engine failure. A damaged fitting can always be dealt with. Here are some tips I found for dealing with such a event:

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1 Just heating the stud to red heat and allowing it to cool is sometimes enough to crack the rust and allow it to screw out.

2 Welding a nut on the stud and turning it back and forth seems to break the rust to powder and allows it to come out. In some cases the studs are so thin it breaks them off.

3 Drilling out is the next method. Taking care to centre the punch will save a lot of work later digging out threads from an off centre hole. Done correctly, the remnants of the threads can be peeled out in several strips.

4 The final solution is blowing it out with the oxy torch. This is a last resort as it is possible to melt the cast iron and destroy the threads. It also makes the cast very hard so that it is difficult to cut an oversize thread. Drilling a hole through the stud first gives a thin edge to start the torch on and allows you to burn the thing out quickly without overheating the cast. Digging out the old oxide is not easy - use an old phillips screwdriver sharpened to a point and a small hammer.
--------------

Tip number 1 worked for me. Also, you can minimize problems by using liberal amounts of bolt loosener on tough customers and give them 24 hours of soaking time. Cheap tools will also increase risk. Preferred brands in the U.S. are professional-grade Craftsman and Snap-On wrenches and sockets. They're pricey, but they give you every possible edge against rounding. Look for 6-sided sockets for maximum grip and avoid 12s and 16s. Prepare for the job, go slowly, be methodical and virtually anyone can pull this off successfully.

heathstimpson

#11
Sorry just posted on the previous one  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  Please definately add me to the list as I have the Unichip on the way and don't want to rolling road tune until they are out. Plus there is the added bonuses of less worry about the engine and that extra noise with the H&S  s8) 8) s8)    s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Ex MR2 Roadster Turbo (seven years) now 997 Porsche Carrera 4 GTS

Anonymous

#12
Please count me in for the gutting session

Two's Company

#13
It's a bit of a journey for me but I might be up for it to get rid of the things!   s:D :D s:D

Anonymous

#14
Count me in too please. I`m afraid I have no mechanical knowledge though   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

Liz

#15
Think attendees are going on this thread now:

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6076 m
ex-TTE Turbo, now Freelander Sport, its not a car its a Landrover!

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