Aaaaand the MOT failed. I've managed to get rid of 11 advisories but failed to fix the handbrake...

I had a look at the cables one more time today and it almost looks like if both cables are not the same length. Or maybe one has been stretched.

When it comes to ordering a new cable, how do I know which do one I need?
My car reg is 02 but if I look up the VIN in the Toyota's ECP, the production date is 12/2001.

On the GT4-play website the PRE FACELIFT cable is dated - 12/1999- 05/2001
and FACELIFT- 08/2002- 09/2005

My car falls into the timeframe in-between those two dates. So which one do I need?

I had an emissions failure on my Avensis (same 1zz engine), the garage couldn't find anything wrong, no exhaust leak, O2 sensors voltage and readings OK. I added a bottle of cataclean and went to the retest with the second gear almost redlining it. It passed straight away.

@simonrobinson

Elring Dirko Grey.  I've not had a leak over several engines.  The hard work getting the sump off comes with the good results, I'm afraid.

The dirty patch is most often down to the terrible OEM O ring on the chain tensioner.

I can send you one that works, courtesy of the club.

PM your address.

I used this, which is what I use on sumps and timing covers for everything... hundreds of customers cars. I buy it in bulk boxes... and my surface prep was perfect.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wynns-1831054-57680-200ml-Gasket/dp/B000Y8U9OK/

But for the last 15 years many of the 1zz cars I've seen like corollas, celica, rav4 all have a dirty patch with dust stuck to them in that area. No where as bad as mine is leaking, but it seems its a troublesome area to seal.

There are likely surface height differences in the head and block where the cover bridges, and on the head there is only about 4mm of surface for the cover to achieve a seal on as there is a circle machined out to act as a drain away, it seems poorly thought out.




I do like the Hondabond HT and the Permatex Grey but trying to get something like a sump off afterwards can be hard work.

What sealant do you use?

I'm going to have a go at machining a spare timing cover to take a square section nitrile O ring, I'm not doing this job twice and I want zero leakage, but I will use a different sealant as insurance so I'm all ears.

Quote from: fawtytoo on March 18, 2026, 11:35EDIT: My MOT is due in the coming weeks so it'll be interesting if it's still ok.

I'd be interested to know the result.

Quote from: Ardent on March 18, 2026, 07:24Can you recall how the emissions issue presented. Was it OK on one reading but not the other?
Was it just out, or way out?

Subject to my memory (this was last year), it was way out with all readings up in the high red zone. The tester allowed the engine to idle for a while and it settled down, so he passed it, so I don't have any readings to show how high it was. After replacing the sensors, I asked for an emissions test and it passed correctly and stayed in the green.

EDIT: My MOT is due in the coming weeks so it'll be interesting if it's still ok.

@simonrobinson

What sealant are you using?

Thank you, what a superstar, experience is priceless.

All of my 1zz have leaked a bit from the same place, but since building this engine mine leaks pretty badly, its my fault. Its that damn oil gallery that feeds the tensioner. What was Toyota thinking when they came up with that.

I really like the looks of this idea here:- https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/1zz-oil-leak-persistant-drips.160069/#post-2187520







But somehow I need to pull it off without a CNC miller, or any miller for that matter. I do have a half decent drill press and a lathe.

Quote from: fawtytoo on March 16, 2026, 16:31Mine had emission issues a year or 2 ago. Most here suggested the cat or maybe a leak somewhere. Despite no error codes, I replaced the 2 manifold O2 sensors and that sorted it.

Can you recall how the emissions issue presented. Was it OK on one reading but not the other?
Was it just out, or way out?

Quote from: fawtytoo on March 16, 2026, 16:31Mine had emission issues a year or 2 ago. Most here suggested the cat or maybe a leak somewhere. Despite no error codes, I replaced the 2 manifold O2 sensors and that sorted it.

I've been wondering about this for a while. The o2 sensors as I understand are a serviceable item but are often not replaced as a matter of course. Although they may work and not throw a code, they can become sluggish or lazy.
I checked the resistance on mine at the weekend and got 13.4. Which sits nicely between the expected range of 11 to 16. But are they sluggish?

I accept that having dared touch them, I will be getting a code some time soon.