Pls Help - new to forum. How to change front brake discs

Started by Anonymous, January 10, 2006, 15:11

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Anonymous

Hi all,

I hope someone can help me. I need the "How to replace front brake discs pages" from an MR2 2003 model service manual (or similar) to help my next door neighbour. Haynes don't do one! Some nice person has uploaded the 1991 model service manual onto the internet - is the mk3 the same please? If not, can anyone help please? I'm quite mechanical but just need to know of any quirks like special tools needed, torque settings and the like if some-one would be kind enough to talk me through it, perhaps? Or better still, does anyone know where I can get the relevant pages from the manual please?

Any help gratefully appreciated, thanks, Stu

Anonymous

#1
Please See

http://www.spydermagazine.com/2002/June/rotor/rotors.htm

AND

http://www.spydermagazine.com/2001/March/brakepads.htm (This link is enclosed in the previous links' artical aswell)

Anonymous

#2
that's just what I was after - thank you.  I guess it's the same for a 2003 model, cheers.  Looks easy enough!  Ooops!   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Much appreciated - Stu

mrsmr2

#3
Is there a need to open the brake fluid reservoir?  It's mentioned on one article but not on the other.

Thanks

Jason
04 Astral Black, hard top, air con, black leather, Corky\'s MSMB; FSB;  RMB; RLCB, empty exhaust manifold, cg-lock.  Warranty: new wheels @ 20k, new pads and discs @ 21k, new wheels @ 26.4k

Anonymous

#4
Quote from: "mrsmr2"Is there a need to open the brake fluid reservoir?  It's mentioned on one article but not on the other.

Thanks

Jason

You could do it without, I suppose, but like it mentions it would create pressure in the reservoir.

If I was you I would do it, only takes a second to do, but make sure you check the level, or you'll be spending more time mopping the floor than changing the brakes.

Anonymous

#5
I would suggest so - as you push the pistons back into the caliper (to provide room for the new thicker pads) it will push the fluid back up towards the reservoir.  You may need to syringe out some of the excess else it will overflow.  

PS I don't speak from experience on a '03 MR2 as I'm about to do my first one but it's been the same on everything else I've ever done!

Anonymous

#6
Aaron took the cap off when he changed my discs for me, and seeing that Aaron is God in my books, I reckon you should.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anonymous

#7
Out of interest, how much are new front pads, just the stock ones?

Also is it the same all the way round, pads on all four wheels?

Anonymous

#8
£45 a pair, IIRC. And the rear ones are different to the front.

Anonymous

#9
Quote from: "Ekona"£45 a pair, IIRC. And the rear ones are different to the front.

I Beg to differ:

£ 22 For Front Set (EBC Pads)
£ 25 For Rear Set (EBC Pads)

Plus £10 P&P

Total of 57 for the lot.

See Here For Details:
http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9484

Anonymous

#10
That is quite reasonable then, where you getting these prices from?

Anonymous

#11
Might have been £45 for the lot then: I can't quite remember as I bought them together.

Anonymous

#12
Quote from: "daz8365"That is quite reasonable then, where you getting these prices from?

http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk

aaronjb

#13
Quote from: "Ekona"Aaron took the cap off when he changed my discs for me, and seeing that Aaron is God in my books, I reckon you should.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Crikey, I've had quite a promotion there!   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:   s:) :) s:)
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

kanujunkie

#14
Quote from: "aaronjb"
Quote from: "Ekona"Aaron took the cap off when he changed my discs for me, and seeing that Aaron is God in my books, I reckon you should.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Crikey, I've had quite a promotion there!   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:   s:) :) s:)

Club God  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:   WOW!
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

Anonymous

#15
Quote from: "mrsmr2"Is there a need to open the brake fluid reservoir?  It's mentioned on one article but not on the other.

Thanks

Jason

I would always do this on any car - I was once at a friend's house whilst he was changing his pads. He didn't remove the cap - the first set were fine, but when he was pushing back the piston on the second set, the rubber gasket ruptured due to over-pressure in the system (I hope this makes sense!)  Besides, you'll probably need to remove a bit of brake fluid to make room for the thicker new discs anyway, and would have to take the cap off to do that...

Anonymous

#16
...one for the general maintenance sticky??

Tem

#17
Quote from: "lordretsudo"Besides, you'll probably need to remove a bit of brake fluid to make room for the thicker new discs anyway, and would have to take the cap off to do that...

Yeah, if you've filled the reservoir with worn pads/discs, then it will overflow during install.

You shouldn't have to do that though, unless you're leaking it. The Toyota system seems to be designed so that the low level warning light will trigger when it's time to get new pads/discs to replace the worn ones.  s8) 8) s8)
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

aaronjb

#18
Quote from: "Tem"Yeah, if you've filled the reservoir with worn pads/discs, then it will overflow during install.

Toyota seem to do that during service - certainly, Dan had never topped his own brake fluid up as far as I know, and it would have been pouring all over the shop with new pads in  s;) ;) s;)
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

Tem

#19
Quote from: "aaronjb"
Quote from: "Tem"Yeah, if you've filled the reservoir with worn pads/discs, then it will overflow during install.

Toyota seem to do that during service

That's true, it's even listed in the maintenance papers (at least over here it is).
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Anonymous

#20
Remove the reservoir cap, by all means, but an alternative is to crack open the bleed nipple (with a bleed pipe/kit attached).  This will make it easier to force the piston back and circumvent any other problems.  You can then top up with fresh fluid, if required.

I would be inclined to flush the system through with new fluid in any case.

markiii

#21
on my jobs list to do this.

how will you know when you have all teh old fluid out?
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Tem

#22
Quote from: "markiii"how will you know when you have all the old fluid out?

I know only one way, take the calipers off and clear them, then get all the fluid off the reservoir and pipes  s:? :? s:?

I don't think you can get the old fluid off the calipers through the bleeder, can you? And that's the hottest spot anyway, so it wouldn't make sense to leave the old stuff in there.
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

mrsmr2

#23
Ok, thanks for the info.  I'm always a bit concerned about contaminents falling in so I've tend to leave the reservoir shut unless bleeeding the system (on previous cars).

Out of ignorance though, where does the extra fluid come from?  No extra fluid has been added (unless Mr T have done it during the service) so in theory, I should be able to compress the caliper without stressing anything.

Don't get me wrong, I will open the reservoir when I change the discs - which will be soon as the brakes are not as effective as they should be.

Jason
04 Astral Black, hard top, air con, black leather, Corky\'s MSMB; FSB;  RMB; RLCB, empty exhaust manifold, cg-lock.  Warranty: new wheels @ 20k, new pads and discs @ 21k, new wheels @ 26.4k

rmowbray

#24
Quote from: "mrsmr2"where does the extra fluid come from?  No extra fluid has been added (unless Mr T have done it during the service)

That's exactly where the extra comes from! As your brakes wear during normal use the fluid level will gradually fall. Then when you take your 2 in for a service Mr T notices that the level is not right up to the MAX marker and pours a couple of cc's of fluid in and charges you £10.  s:evil: :evil: s:evil:  

Richard

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